13 July 2019

Serpentine and Glen Helen Gorge

Quick stop at Serpentine Gorge. The boys stayed in the car.


Glen Helen Gorge:

The boys spent an hour or so rock skipping at Glen Helen gorge. Walking in, the water is painfully cold, but not any problem for Ollie.
Glen Helen gorge skipping rocks on the water:

Roma and Redbank Gorges

Quick stop at Roma Gorge - a 45min drive on loose stones, 4wd only, and at the end is some amazing rock art and a water hole. This is a special area for thousands of years to explain the laws.
Roma Gorge rock art:
Camping at Redbank Gorge.
Tjoritja National Park - Redbank gorge is also beautiful. There is a walk to Mount Sonder at about 1400m, so would have been a 700m climb. We skipped out on that. The camp site was very rocky but what a view! We got some lucky advice to stay here. Met a French guy with his Australian wife.

Redbank Gorge: 
Redbank Gorge
Redbank Gorge: 
Redbank Gorge: Spot Louis in this shot.
Redbank Gorge: Louis the mountain goat. 
Redbank Gorge
Redbank Gorge: 
Redbank Gorge

Tnorala - a metor crater

Tnorala is an ancient meteor impact crater, 142 million years old. It would have been hundreds of metres high. It's a once a 15 million year impact, the comet being about 1km diameter. The area has slowly eroded down to the hard rock that was melted and blasted out by the impact. Inside, it forms a clearly visible circle of hillside with outstanding constrasting colours. The crater is about 5kms wide, made of solid rock that got melt blasted out.
We got here late. There is no camping. We found somewhere nearby in a clearing with a camp fire. I spent the first hour or two listening for footsteps. We could hear voices. I wondered if these were axe murderers, but more likely they were also campers who found the correct place to put down a tent.



Can it happen again? Hope not soon!

Ntaria pt 2, 21 June

On the way back we visit Hermansburg again, but this time we find the tourist section, sit down in the cafe and relax. This is the area with the old mission buildings from the 1800's etc. It's run by a bunch of crispies who still run the Sunday church (not many turn up, mostly oldies just like at home.) 
 Big cat is one cool cat. The boys are entranced by his charm. He soaks up the sun and the pats.
Our standard charge up festival; computer, tablets, batteries, night lights.

Not much charity for the youngsters; the lady in the cafe warns us to look after all the things we've got charging up, in case they go walkabout.
Despair and disillusionment: the mission area and it's aims go sour with police and local cattle station owners working together to push the people off their land; mass shootings occurred.

Ntaria (Hermannsburg) and Ndappa (Palm Valley)

Hermannsburg is a bit of a shock; rubbish all over the place, coke cans, drink bottles, chip packets. Local residents with 5 cars parked in their yards, a few on blocks: it gives the impression of a wild town. The hot food takeaway is enmeshed with security screens. The community run supermarket has a very small fruit and veg section, and frozen meat; good to stock up. Sultana bran was like 13 bucks at the general store, so you have to be selective on what you get.

The signs up request you respect the locals; don't go around snapping photos of the town. It's the first time we've experienced a town quite like it.


Palm Valley has thousands of red cabbage palms, and a prehistoric look to it. The cycads are not actually palms, a prehistoric type tree from millions of years ago. Quite a surprise after travelling through a lot of semi arid area. The gorge has permanent water that is released slowly by the stone and rock.
Lou worked on an animation for a school subject. He made a dog and two human characters, then moved the figures around to make a clay-motion picture. Nice work!
 Wiki says: Cycads are seed plants with a long fossil history that were formerly more abundant and more diverse than they are today. They typically have a stout and woody trunk with a crown of large, hard and stiff, evergreen leaves. They usually have pinnate leaves.

The individual plants are either all male or all female. It's amazing to see these places with a whole series of waterholes. They would have been critical to surviving droughts and the desert.
The palms cling to the rocks all over the place.
The trees put roots straight into the rock.





Watarrka National Park

Watarrka (Kings Canyon) is amazing. Honey pot domes, with a set of gorges, a permanent waterhole, lush trees; it must have been a real oasis for the first Australians. It was a cool ridge top walk.
This place is very beautiful. We can recommend the walk thoroughly.






How dumb is it to climb here? This dumb!
Guy and bub climbing almost on top of the don't climb sign.





This area used to be at the bottom of a massive inland sea. I think it was massive instability that pushed the land up. Now the sea's ripples are visible after weathering. It's several hundred metres above sea level now though...

Only 45 million years ago, Australia broke away from Antarctica and started moving north. The temperature at the south pole was higher than today. Forests of pines, cycads, and ferns abounded. In the last 20 million years, Australia became drier, but these plants live on in little oases like Watarrka.