07 December 2025

Sainj to Kumarhatti, Solan, Himachal Pradesh

Setting out at about 8am, today was 78km, up 2050m, down 1790m, which sounds bad but was surprisingly gentle mostly. This highway was more like what I expected, more ancient, gentle, climbing slowly, following the contours of the mountains.
Initially it goes downhill, about 5 degrees C but feels colder, and my hands turned purple. I put one at a time in my pocket. 
The beautiful scenery more than makes up for it. The road winds along the mountain. A stream at the valley floor is rock strewn peaceful and audible. The green monkeys seemed scared which is a nice thing compared to the aggressive antics experienced before. 
It winds along like this all day. Traffic is reasonably light and easy to avoid. At a servo, there is a pump where the pressure can be set precisely via digital readout, v nice.
A man I meet invited me to have a cup of tea and lunch. I declined as I need to make progress. A car load of young guy stop to ask where I'm from, where I'm going, do I have Instagram, Facebook etc. Lunch was at a roadside stall. The cook comes from a poor family. His dad is sick so he has to work here. I think he was from Shimla? He asked about migration to Australia and working as a chef there. I gave him the usual advice, to go for a study visa. But I don't think that he has any money to pay for the airfare. He would like to work in my home but I explained it's too small. He should check the au-paire ads. All this is via translator and is the most substantial conversation today. 
The hotels en route looked rubbish but I ended up at the HOTEL OJAS & RESTAURANT!, MAIN MARKET, Kalka - Shimla Highway, Kumarhatti, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, India. It is excellent, apart from working out the shower (I ended up using the bucket and scoop), and the doona had a dirty line where it touches people's necks. The pillow looks clean. Dinner was Aloo Mattar, Dahl and 5 rotis, very good. 
Before dinner I bought 300g of sensational sweets 130 rupees, ate a couple. This is an instant mood changer. I love this place although it is situated under the NH5 flyover, just like in the Blues Brothers but with more dirt, uneven pavement and shops higgledy-piggledy around the round about with the major support structure in it.

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