Leaving Kiari

Went for a walk back up to town. Mainly to try to find my sentimental scarf from the wedding, I could kick myself, and secondly to have a look around. I'm sure the scarf got picked up quickly. The village seems to me to be a typical old style place built around a path, then a set of paths, clustered together. It's even got a Piazza with seats for the oldies to sit and gossip. 

To make milk chai, you need dahl chinni (dalchini (दालचीनी), the English translation is cinnamon) break it into pieces by hand, a clove ground in mortar and pestle. Boil these in a pot, and a spoon of tea,  a tiny bit of brown sugar. Add milk, bring to boil,  strain to serve. 

Also he makes a roti/pancake from shredded cabbage, rice, small lentils. The last 2 ingredients are soaked over night, then ground up in the blender. Remove any excess water from the cabbage as it gives crumbly pancakes. Use a cast iron pan and butter or ghee to grease. 

I think I get moving around midday or so, so they say I should stay another day and go to the ceremony with them but if I don't, I will never leave. I get to Sainj, only 30km away, up 350m, down 930m elevation. 

Every hotel seems surprised to get a guest. The staff scramble to get soap, a towel and glasses to the room. Seems quite clean but I think they don't wash the sheets often. I have a camping sheet but it is cramped. 

The hotel manager very kindly walked to the local shops then to the fort with me. 

The fort is currently a family home and the owner intercepted us on the driveway in. He is building accommodation on site right next to the historic structure. I'd move it a bit personally. 

Maybe it's the lack of food but this place is depressing. The only restaurant I can find has a few drunks huddled over a beer and when I make the eating action with my hand, the guy who also looks sad, says no. I find a samovar place, so 2 of these will do for dinner. Things are looking up.

The hotel manager once again walked back with me to show an actual restaurant. Typical desi dishes are served on the plate. I can't understand but I think they would give more. I've only got a 500 note, and they charge only 50 rupees. After getting a bottle of water, I have 10 more in change, so I go back to give them that.