And lastly, to Delhi!

For up at 7, feeling relaxed and by 7.30 I was rolling, skipping the breakfast, as that comes at 8.30.

Finding the parcel office is an adventure that goes past the police, the new metro construction, down the road, and two left turns. 

The parcel office is shut,  opening at 8am. The train leaves at 9.10, and I have to walk back to the station from here. 

I waited till 8.10, then started stripping the bike in order to dump it/ give it to the nicest looking guy, who turned out to be a helpful parcel person at that stage. He'd told me the train is delayed by an hour, so it seemed hopeful. 

Rolled back to the station proper to the info board, confirmed it's late, back to parcels. It was now open, yeeha! One customer speaks excellent English. I asked him to pay, as they do UPI only. It's 53, I gave him 100, which he refused, so I gave him 50, looked for more coins but he doesn't want that either. The parcels office has 90% great people, and 10% who would like to supplement their income. It's important to concentrate on the overwhelmingly majority of amazing people. They would honestly help in any way possible, and just want a simple thank you. 

The delay continued and we got away finally at about 11.30am. A family has my seat as always,  but they've swapped me a cabin to myself. It always works well, train seating. 

I spent the time hotel hunting. Nanda told me to do the bike at Old Delhi station. She'd wanted to buy it. I offered it for free. 

I was expecting the ultimate boss battle in Delhi traffic but it is just too civilised. If Jaipur is 9 on the scale, Delhi is an easy 6. There are spaces between the cars even. Arrived at the hotel. Guard says 2 wheelers must go two gates away, but at the front door. The supervisor came out. I would like to go into the front door. I asked if he could park it? Yeah no problem. I slung him a hundred.

When I came down he was eager to get it out. I slung him another hundred. I really really like valet parking.  When I came back later, he was desperate to know: where's the bike?? I'd given it away. Sadly he was getting no more 100s but still he was very responsive. 

At parcels office, Old Delhi station, Nanda knows someone who knows someone. I can't get past the guard. He wanted me to go to police. The guy turned up, confusion reigned with the guard, got Nanda on the phone. The receiver eventually took it. I wandered to the metro. I'm dying to know what the ladies who will ride it think of me beast.

Wandering the Connaught Place, a kid asked if he could practice his English. We chatted. He took me to some Lassi place, was going to walk away but I invited him to dinner. He had chicken bryani. I had some paneer thing,  plus butter rotis. We parted ways, and I went home. 

It's great to be in a wonderful hotel. Breakfast is street food. I asked for Aloo Chole, got dahl. Went to Modi's residence. The streets are immaculate, wide green street gardens. At the home, many soldiers are on guard with machine guns. 

Nearby, Nehru's library is closed Mondays. Can't get anywhere near parliament, went to get Pashmina shawls, stopped at Afghami Resto, for fish tikka on a skewer,  and thick hard to chew flat bread. The main man spoke excellent English,  told me much about Kabul, where he's from. He reminds me a lot of Stephen Pav with his kind enthusiasm. 

They speak Dari which is 99.9% exactly Persian. The hellos, goodbyes, etc are v v familiar, so i told the waiter the food was خیلی خوب. The main guy recommended a shawl exporter, seemed an excellent tip. I picked up a bag load. 

I tried to view Humayun’s Tomb हुमायूं का मकबरा from a distance but it is too packed with people. Metroed it back, had a Malai chai with Sachin, met his buddy Rohan. They took me to another carpet place. I keep stating that I'm just there to look, and if course ended up getting a hand woven silk one with extremely fine detail, 1.2m wide by 1.8. Rohan did let me carry it for you.  I needn't have worried: he handed it back when I asked. I went home solo, dropped it, went out to get a backpack for the flight. Another guy offers to show me a carpet place, told me my one was a tourist trap. He knows the best place. He took me back to The weaver cottage arts and craft द वीवर कॉटेज आर्ट्स एंड क्राफ्ट, much to my relief!! Said it's the best.

There was a choice of hand knotted silk. This is about twice the price. He also showed me an ultra fine hand knotted work in 90cm width, which is really stunning. He said an artist may only do this,  was it once a year,  or once or twice in a lifetime? Only super rich buy this, and it takes an age to make.

For dinner I asked for Paneer. And got dahl. Again. 

For breakfast,  I asked for Aloo Chole Chawal, again,  at the cashier. The paper receipt just said "Rice". I asked the guy who makes the rice, clearly "Aloo Chole". Today I received Aloo Chole, after 2 attempts, on the third we had success!

Packed, chucked out shoes, single use slippers that I've used a lot, and the Indian phone charger. Checked out, stored my bags. 

Met up with Rohan and Sachin, had a chai, got them a novel each to improve their English. 

We went to a tea wholesaler, tried Darjeeling, Earl get, Chai Masala. Rohan wants one for his mum so I got all three, and then saw the eye popping price, went ahead as I said I would. Fuck.

We went to a park to relax, but the afternoon I'm miffed about the f ing tea. Had veggie burger/fries at Hungry Jacks. Can't believe they eat this in this cuisine rich country. Went home, got metro to airport, saw the tea there, a lot is a fraction of the price. One 100g pack is 4,000, which is the rate I'd paid, so maybe I wasn't robbed? Rohan said his mum loved the Darjeeling, so I figure it's the service and try to absolve my fault in financially f ing it, and get some mental relief at her pleasure. 

At the airport, I had Benne Khali for dinner, so much butter, almost like a thick fluffy crispy sugar free pancake, with accompaniments and a dahl flavoured side, very good. 

I slept well, on and off, for most of the flight. More or less woke up with 2 hours to go. Tried to take photos showing the curvature of the earth, for John, haha, but it's not clear due to clouds, poor visibility.

Getting through customs took about 10 minutes. Walking and waiting for the bags was probably 15. Plane landed 18:34 according to Google maps. I got to Central just in time for the 19:18 train for the Coast, which is miraculously good. 

More Agra

Went to Tomb of Mariam-UZ-Zamani टॉम्ब ऑफ़ मरियम-उज़-जमानी. They don't take cash. You need to do the ticket online, easy enough, then the lady at the desk also writes down random things like passport number, my age, other things that would not be requested normally, and was also on the online ticket for whatever reason. 

I think the reason I loved Mariam Zamani tomb so much is that it was a lovely surprise. It was the first place for the day for me. The pictures don't give an amazing impression.

But it is a decently big building, with a lot of detail, a staircase that leads down to the crypt, expansive gardens, and many repeated archways inside the structure.

I would have loved to get up to the roof but access was locked.

Across the road is the impressive Tomb of Akbar टॉम्ब ऑफ़ अकबर, bike parking 5 rupees, Indians pay 20 to enter, foreigners 250, as per the Mariam Zamani. As always some rando is telling me to put the bike somewhere else, not here, no not over there, here! Can i lock it to the fence? Ya ok.

Some other rando claims to be an official guide. I ask the price by he said up to you. This is annoying as I don't know how much to tip. 

I'm interested to know if the script is Persian. I ask if he can read Persian. He explains he's Hindi, so no. I explain I'm Australian and I can. No comment from him. This bullshit is annoying.

3 of the gates are for the look only,  and do not allow people through. The white marble is solid from Rajasthan. Italian Carrera marble is proud, but not this. 

The emperor had a Hindu, a Muslim,  and a Christian wife. Motifs from each adopted in the wall artwork.

The rectangle on a crypt indicates a male defunct. A square is a female. Akbar lays has pointing north, feet to the west, face pointing west to Mecca.

I asked if the tour was done. He said yes, so I gave 500, in line with pricing for Amer Fort, probably too much. It's a relief to be able to go at my own pace.

The parking guy said it's 10 rupee, but the sign said that it is 5. It's just the principle of paying more than the asking price that I find border line theft. I paid 5.

Next stop is at Mumtaz Mahal and Itmad-ud-Daulaइत्माद-उड़-दौला Three is a parking guy who says it's 20 for 2 wheelers and shows me a ticket for a motorcycle. I argue that that is wrong for bicycles but there no board that I saw so I agree that I will pay 20, and resign myself to possible bike theft from this petty crook.

Inside is very beautiful. It's not as big as the other Tombs, but it's a beautiful building, well worth a visit.

It would have been even more amazing back in the day when the river must have been bigger. One of the buildings overhangs the river.

The main mausoleum is white marble with coloured inlays. The patterns are very pretty. Looks like some Persian poetry over the arches, but in any case, it is Arabic script from Mughal times.

Back with parking man, I've guy 20, but I want an official receipt damn it. I had to argue for a while, then he reluctantly gave me a ticket receipt for it. Victory is mine!

In the way home, another guy showed me she too get a photo of the Taj, then also asked for money, which I did give. 

Dinner was at Tajnuma ताजनुमा. It's in a hotel,  fairly fancy. As a foreigner, I am really tired of being treated like a walking ATM.

The main waiter at the restaurant did not want me to order the Thali. He wanted me to buy the 2199 rupee tasting menu. I'm sick of being pushed to pay for things I didn't ask for. He said Thali is only good for one person. Well I am one person. So I'm getting the Thali. One staff member clicked a photo of me. One staff member is sitting there on his phone loudly listening to memes. One guy comes up to me and says "yes!". I always find this confusing. I already ordered. What do you want from me?

My order was for a mango drink. They brought out a strawberry one. The strawberry drink is delicious. The Thali was well presented and a nice meal.

I don't think they get a lot of customers. The staff hung around in the corner booth, all on their phones. I think the staff should at least pretend to be busy. 

Next the 600 rupee meal, with a drink, adding GST, and water comes to 992 rupees, thank you. Then the main guy stated that this does not include the tip. I ask; so you're telling me to tip you? He doesn't respond to this.

It's another place that I cannot wait to escape. I get chased down the street, from time to time, in this country, by people wanting me to buy things that I do not want. This is the overall feeling that I as a foreigner visiting this restaurant. 

Dear restaurant owners: the whole reason we come to a nicer place is to avoid being hassled. I do not plan to come here again, that's for sure. Tomorrow is the Taj with Imran. He's expensive, but I don't care as long as you know beforehand, no surprises. 

It's nice to be home in a really nice room. 

So the next day was with Imran Khan, same name as the famous cricketer. He is a good guide, not too fast, too slow, the correct amount of detail according to what you'd like to know. 

The Taj Mahal is impressive,  masses of white marble with precious stones inlaid to make the beautiful patterns, eg Onyx (black) from Belgium, malachite (green) from South Africa, Lapis Lazuli (blue) from Afghanistan, the magic orangey stone that catches the light is local. I believe there were diamonds, gold, and jewelled carpet hangings, definitely in the Agra fort at least, that were looted out by the Brits. Some gems were stolen by tourists or locals.

The mausoleum was built by Shah Jahan for his 3rd wife Mumtaz, who have him a son. The 1st two produced daughters. Mumtaz died in child birth. The king was able to build this over a 20 year period, from 1631. It's a sad story. 

Over the river he planned to build exactly the same building, but in pure black Onyx. It would have cost 4 times the price.

His son Aurangzeb took power, jailed Shah Jahan, and cancelled the second mausoleum as it would have cost so much. 

The luxuriously bejewelled, but sad, wing where Shah Jahan was held captive, overlooks the river and the Taj containing his dead wife. So for 8 years he could have contemplated his dead wife, the child that she gave him, and the betrayal of that son. Sucks to have been the king.

The Agra Fort is a beautiful complex of large walls,  palaces,  including the main section that was under the gardens near the entry, that we did not get to see.

I can't remember how we started talking about carpet, but the guide tells me he's got one from the factory. Well I'm a sucker for that, so I arrange to go to the factory. 

The carpet factory has several families working away calling out colours to make the patterns, and tying off the knots one by one. In the end, I bought one. Marie gave it the OK, cis sge oks every purchase, haha. I hope like hell I wasn't ripped off or fooled into buying some bullshit carpet. We'll see when it gets home.

Third stop was lunch courtesy of Imran, which is very kind of him. All you can eat, which is not so much these days. 

He warned me about the rural yahoos who come to town to ask for a selfie, and pick your pockets. After that I decide not to go out at night.

I switched on the hot water service for a shower,  then it burst, pouring water out. I tried twiddling the tank's taps to relieve the pressure. Not sure if me touching them popped it under pressure? The tank taps tingled with electricity. Me being dumb, I thought I'll get a quick shower out of it. 

When I tried to turn off the shower taps they were then live. I tried to turn them off using toothpaste tubes and got a zap. I used a thick mat and got properly zapped then but got the taps to turn off. 

I told the hotel people because I was then genuinely concerned that someone could die getting to use the shower. The owner said he'd call the electrician and pull the (very wet?) plug. The plug is positioned under the shower head, which is the worst place for it, except for maybe submerging it fully in a bath tub. I told him to please do not touch it!! He agreed, because the elec was on his way. 

I mentioned getting dinner at the hotel. The hotel owner served up a home made chicken bryani. I offered to pay, but he wouldn't take it. I think he was just happy that I was alive haha. F77k what a night.

I smacked about 3 mozzies with blood,  and a few more,  then slept with the fan blowing noisily again. Must remember to pop anti malarial pills!

Trip to Agra on the train

I'm in class 2S. This cost ~500 rupees, ie <$10 for a 4 hour trip. So I was wondering if it was going to be a zoo. 

I got up at 5.50am, traffic is light and pleasant, although visibility wasn't great in the dark.

No probs with parcel people today. I weighed my bags, about 16kg, and the bike is 14kg, so still thinking whether to take it home or not.

Chatted to a guy from Bruge Belgium and his Belge Nepali buddy from Ghent. They're having a nice time. The Nepali guy speaks Hindi which helps. I left them, worked out how to find carriage D8 on the Ixigo app (actually works!!), and entered. There was/still is a while family in my seat group.  No worries, there is a seat near, space for the bags and then I could enjoy the show. 

It is good fun. The kids are drinking cough medicine, I'm chatting with the guy next to me. He is a potato farmer. Everyone is sitting down at last, so v good.

I took a toilet break, a long pee, weighing on my mind for 2 hours. 

We arrived.

A bit of footpath hoping to get past the stationary standard collection of fools, all honking and going nowhere, and I arrived at the homestay which looks wonderful, had a tall cup of Masala milk chai no sugar.

For the arvo, I went to the Taj Mahal, just the outside, met Imran Khan the tour guide. He showed me a viewing point. 

Chatted to dine boys there. 

Went through some crazy streets in some crazy bazaars, got to the most expensive restaurants I've been to, and ate too much. Iran recommended this place, as it's his brother's. Very fancy, but I only ordered one thing: Dahl Takda, too filling!!

More Jaipur

Today is Tuesday the 23rd. I'll be having the Pav bhaji, a thick spicy vegetable curry served with a soft, buttered bread roll, and chai, at The Kullad Story द कुल्लड स्टोरी. 

I'll see some museums as I got a Jaipur  Composite Ticket yesterday. 

Went to the Amber Fort first thing around 10am. Got some excessive honking on the way. Serves them right to get all stuck in a giant bottle neck with a pedestrian crossing. I got a reasonably rock- star parking spot and cross the street, probably before the honkers got through. 

One guy I have to say no to 3 times on the way in. A shame, maybe he was actually an official guide? Too bad,  one "no" is normally enough. 

Is it weird to say that I find the sight of white people quite a shock? I am not used to seeing any. 

There's a pedestrian walk way up. That's excellent. 

For a coffee at Amber Fort for 240 inr ($4). This is a dear as poison and tastes like water. Breakfast cost 190 for a meal and an excellent milk chai. I am in a shitty mood today. Crowds are always annoying and this place is heaving. 

On the way out I bought a couple of paintings, like throwing chips to a seagull, they all desperately pressed in. I had to outrun one guy who wouldn't take no. 

The guy at the parking said 40 rupees parking charge. I said no!

The ride back was uneventful. 

Went to Hawa Mahal, which is nearly a 2d facade at the front. You can climb to the top of this kind of wedding cake looking thing. I think it's Buddha's crown or something. 

Then climbed the Isarlat Sargasooli ईसरलाट सरगासूली which is a victory tower. It has a ramp spiralling up the inside. Kids were having a great time. I had to block the noise by putting my fingers in my ears. 

Popped over the road, checked an alley of bracelet markers, went up a temple steps after the guy who sent me over followed me over and insisted I go up. 

Met a local artist who took me to his gallery, gave me a chai, said I don't need to buy, but then pushed to sell me a painting anyway. I'm a sucker if people are nice.

Got home. Went to dinner at Kaaram's कारम. A bit weird for ordering, as you must do it through a touch screen. The plus side, there is a picture of every single dish. You can pay cash as well, not to the screen haha.

I had a Ghee Podi Thatte Idli. Delicious. Plus the man will come and give you more sauces as needed.

They're playing western pop music, which feels weird. If I could, I'd ask for local music.

My other dish was a Ghee Podi Benne Masala Dosa with potato mixture. Also v delicious.

--

Another day in paradise, if crazy traffic, and enough honking to drive you bonkers is it.

Rolled around thinking I'll get to know it a bit better, but the fly overs and multi lane roads with magic's divide barriers reduce that plan.

I went to the Gandhi Vatika museum गांधी वाटिका. There are so many displays that it's exhausting. A lot were lacking key details, and were more bla bla, this happened, this person was important because blah. It needs a serious coffee shop at halfway, as it is extensive. 

Rolled a bit more, had a street food lunch of 2 x Chiili Pakoda, rolled more. Ended up shouting at one guy who put his bumper on my back wheel. Definitely had enough, went home for a snooze.

Booked a train ticket to Delhi, went got money, had dinner at Tadka Town तड़का टाउन again. The exec Thali, very nice. 

I decided to read my book, then checked if I had a photocopy of my passport. This is required by the parcel office, in order to book luggage, eg the bike. I've got none, it's 9.30pm. Who's going to be open now? Find one, courtesy of Google. His copier is bung, stopped at an agent who looked like a possible but they said no. Finally tried a hotel, gave the guy a 100 and got 6 copies, so we're set. 

Back in the room, the guys next door are playing Indian rap, and talking loudly. After reading for a while, then trying to sleep,  I knocked on their door and immediately and kindly cut the noise. 

Waking up in Jaipur

The 5 star hotel put on a very decent variety of breakfast. I also ordered a rolled up crisp pancake with potato mix inside. I think they called it samosa masala.

Left my bags at the hotel. Headed to Nahargarh Fort, a steep uphill walk. 

It's nice, overlooking the city. There are two stepwells. 

The way back followed the ridge line. Then wound down the hill, v fun.

Stopped at 2 leather shops. One wanted 3500 for a very average bag that was 1300 without a discount in Pushkar, the identical camel leather with green carpet lining. Makes the decision easy. 

Got 4 identical sweets after asking for a mix selection of 3. The language barrier is stopping me eating more. 

Went back to the 5 star hotel. They wouldn't let me park in front via the main entry gate on a bike to collect my bags. Well screw you guys eh.

Got into the home stay, which is on the 2nd floor, feels like an ikea ad. 

Went to the Albert museum, which had pottery, more guns etc, some replica art work, interesting, but a bit boring.

Dinner was at Tadka Town तड़का टाउन. I had Gatta masala, gram flour dumplings in a spicy yogurt-based gravy, which is not really much veg in the veg dish. Was still hungry, got some dahl. After I went searching for snacks, had 2 milk cakes, 2 bananas and a Minus 30 brand mango ice cream, not bad, while locked out of the front gate.

The owner informed me that it's not locked. I used the paddle pop stick to lift the bolt and then got in, then left the bolt up so others can get in to the home stay. 

I think I'm full enough now. 

Trip to Jaipur

Same breakfast as yesterday,  wandered around, looked at a few bags, filled a water bottle using a public chiller box. I don't know if this water safe. 

Said farewell to Cookie, left 2 shirts, hopefully for anyone who needs it. 

And I'm off. Up the hill that overlooks Ajmer. I went past the lake. It's nice.

Stopped at the govt museum, mainly because of needing to pee. It has some good artwork, 5000 y.o. pottery, and 1-2000 y.o. coins, and various weapons. 

Outside the honking is annoying today,  and I just couldn't be bothered staying. I stood in the street and booked a train ticket, dropped the bike off and had a Thali lunch.

In the train, I've picked exec 1st class. They bring bottles of water and a tray load of snacks.

At Jaipur a parcels guy practically pounced on me. He took me to the window, sat down with me while we waited then told me to pay 50 rupees to someone random at the collection desk. I asked why? Told him that is not how it works, informed him I'd already paid. The other guy laughed and my guy gave up immediately. 

All the same I fully kit up and ride off quickly to avoid any evil spirits. 

First stop, the hotelier is away, 2nd stop has no vacancy, 3rd stop Park Hotel I couldn't see there, 4th stop is under renovation so 5th stop is a 5 star hotel which is a major treat.

Last night's hotel:

this is actually very clean and comfortable. 

Tonight's hotel:

also clean and comfortable. 

India is a total roulette wheel. 

Pushkar

Found a laundry in my street, and it's well time to de-filth my cycling pants, plus put in about 7 pairs of undies/socks. Jeans were refreshed for the very first time. 

Breakfast was a standard yellow rice with tomato and onion. I was able to ask a British lady, who'd just ordered, about it. 

Went back to my room, got ready. When I popped out Cookie was there, great timing. 

We wandered down to the lake, then out along a sandy road lined with plastic rubbish, dogs and cows, plus some very pretty cultivated fields. 

He's about 6'4, dreadlocks down to the back of his calves,  Harry Potter glasses, Rasta clothes, bare foot with henna tattoos on them. He gets a lot of requests for selfies. He fist pumps,  never shakes hands,  can't see the point, you never know what those hands have touched or if they ever get washed. Many who leave the toilets do not wash them. True in Aust also, I'd rather not think about it. He's been to about 50 countries. 

We had lunch.  I never realised that they water down the dahl etc in the Thali, until he pointed that out. 

He showed me the over coat, like a warm poncho, that he's making. The shop owner lets him use the scrap and the sewing machines, so it's a bit like a patchwork quilt. 

It was time to try using the squat toilet. It turned out to be pretty comfortable. I won't be scared in future! You just need to be mindful of flushing it with a big bucket. For my readers benefit, you squat with the hole to the rear. 

An arvo snooze later and the rest was just wandering, shopping, seeing the old buildings. 

I picked up the laundry about 5 past 8. In Shimla laundry was a couple of thousand, Amritsar cost about 750. Today's roulette wheel of washing comes in at 250. 

Getting to Pushkar

Started early, about 8. The main road is still boring but much less traffic. I guzzled a litre to be sure of peeing clear. Neae the toll gate, there's a spot against a wall, but looking up halfway through, I spotted a man behind the window at the weighbridge. The window faces my show but luckily the man is avoiding the view. 

I took a left at Barr, and got another bottle. A man starts chatting,  then introduced one, then another brother,  a niece etc. He offered a tea, seemed nice so we all went into his courtyard opening to the road. They pulled up a chair,  and I was ready to sit,  although it became painful later. 

There's about 4 brothers, two wives, 5 kids. They offer some breakfast which is a capsicum ayvar type thing,  delicious,  and a Sabz of cauliflower etc, v delicious. One girl speaks quite ok English,  finishing a BSc, but I can't find out in what. 

The road that follows is rural. Herds of goats are on the road. There are many small villages. 

I felt the back tyre was pretty low. There's a massive thorn. I repaired that but after pumping it up, it goes fully down. A motorbike rider with a half drunk pillion, he says, watched and asked questions about visas. Surely I could get them one?

The pillion found the second hole. Patching that seemed to be ok, but I tried to pedal faster.

Further on, the motorbike rider stops me to say my shirt looks very good... can he have it? I'd gotten it from The Hub, wanted to reduce weight,  so pretty happy to give it. He seemed pretty happy. 

A vet on a lovely Royal Enfield gave me a hand. He is very strong. He dragged me the last couple of k's into his village. 

We had a seat and a milk chai. 

At last it was only 12 to go. There are commercial flower gardens, some walled fields. I would have stopped to take a picture but it's very late.  I arrived juat after dark. The place looks like the Gold Coast. I'm very disappointed. However the main part of town has many historic buildings so all good. 

There are so many foreigners here. One asked about my bike. He is about 6'3, has dreadlocks tied i in a bun, comes from Manchester. He gets asked for selfies all the time, just like me. His name is Cookie.

He told me about where he's been staying. So now I'm here too. 

Hotel Shanti Palace होटल शांति पैलेस is an old Haveli with many rooms. 

I'm looking at How to Use a Squat Toilet on WkiHow.