Day 4

After a night in Kuthar, breakfast is at 8 so I go for a tiny wander to look over the town. I can go about 100m on the level but don't want to go further as then the road dips sharply down. The entrances are via bridges into the front door. One building goes down about 3 levels from the road,  and up 2.

Walking back to the room, turns out there were other guests at all. He makes music on YouTube, and makes enough that he can do it do time. Him and his buddy are lovely, from Delhi, rolling back today. His best video got 17 million hits. He is famous in the north. 

About 10 mins after 8, they announce breakfast will be in 20 minutes. It's not the early start I was hoping for. 

At least the road is not too bad. The steep bits are easiest walked, then your legs get a break, and the next ridden part is easier. 

But sure he I ended up 3ks off route. Took a while but returning down was fast once the error was found. It took me 4 hours to work out the ATM. The town here has a big military area. 

At Kunihar, I get a well timed call from the mechanic, and finally I can get 1st gear. It wasn't too last sadly. There's something with the cable and the selector. 

At least the progress seems decent,  despite doing regularly to try adjust the tension. 

I stopped for a chat with Karam the local school guard.

There was another group of monkeys in the trees. Got a video this time. 

I'm so close I can feel it as the sun is setting. The town is so big and sitting perched on a hill must be it right? It's not. 

A random kids talks Hindi excitedly to me about the bike. His dad comes up as well. It's fine dark but the streets and shops are lit up like Christmas and the road is so jammed, progress is easy and stress free. 

After town though it's hard to see, the shoulder is non existent in places and at one point it seems way too dangerous to continue. A food place is right there, perfect timing. We try to coordinate group 2s bus to get me but it's not possible. There are guys in the hut around a fire. I say my name is Ted in Hindi, then we're all shaking hands, getting names, asking about work, kids etc, offering a cup of tea. One offers a lift and to leave the bike for the night. 

The poor guys must have driven a good half hour in the traffic around tiny tiny roads choked with cars, crawling through tight spaces, doing a 3 point turn, and hill starting up a steep incline, gave me a traditional sweet.

At the hotel, Marie, the boys and other family members are getting off the bus. I want to hug everybody!!