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| Arnhem |
As soon as you cross over into the Netherlands, bikes are everywhere, as are the orange paths. All the time in all directions, there are odd ones, couples, bunches. It's a huge difference to Germany. Driving is a nightmare as we don't know where we're going and don't know where to stay. It's like driving in an endless suburb of Canberra at 50km/h.
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| Arnhem after WW2 |
For us the nightmare continued for an hour as we just get lost looking for a camp site in Nijmegan, which looks great in the pictures, but seems like an industrial dump where we are. New roads appear, old ones are blocked off, and the canals block all. We keep rolling out of town, then give up and stop at the first B&B. This is in some bizarre backstreet, nowhere and is the first one we saw. The owner is not expecting anyone, so goes off down the road to buy something for breakfast tomorrow.
She tells us where there is a restaurant that's open in the seeming suburban desert. The pancake place is really beautiful, next to a canal, perfect hedged fields - it would be impossible to find unless you know it's down one of the country lanes. It's called Aan de Linge. It seems like a chain, but I like it.
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| The historic centre of Arnhem |
Today we drive to Arnhem, 18kms away. On the way there's couples cycling together side by side. Most seem to be making great efforts to get moving, bowing down to the steerer. We saw 2 guys in lycra even. The more I see of the place, the more it reminds me of Canberra. 4 lane roads in the city and not enough cars to fill either lane. Speed bump intersections are everywhere. Would be harder to smash at speed.
In Arnhem, there's a nice pedestrian area that's a big version of a suburb of Sydney, like the shops at Lane Cove. The nice historic centre is surrounded by 60s style 5 story office blocks.
Driving here is also a nightmare because everyone is so impatient. Everyone wants to tail gate and to break the speed limit.
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