The train to Jaipur. I mean Jodhpur.

On my list day in Amritsar, I took it real easy. Had to pack all the washed socks and undies hanging out for a while. My train ticket stayed stubbornly unconfirmed. My fingers wee super crossed. I was 4th on the wait list, it seems? I am learning a lot about the train. But my support team in Sydney told me that I'm on!

That is a massive relief. I was planning on going to the bus stop to ask around if they could pack a bike. 

Train is the answer to how I do the next 650km ( edit: 714, or another 300 on the train). I could ride but it would take a week. This way I get there overnight.

Today I'm going to cycle in circles around the city until 2pm to celebrate!!!!

I had a fairly good wash. The diverter would not budge to the shower, so it's the bucket and scoop via the lower tap. If you fill it with hot, use 1 or two scoops, then soap up then slowly pour the rest, it works OK. Don't get undressed until the bucket is full with hot water. Otherwise you'll freeze. 

Breakfast was a bit late. Rice like a bryani, potato mix but like a dahl and the bread was puri. I really like puri now, and the other two were delish as well. Got a lassifrom across the street. This lassi is correct,  v good. 

I biked it through the alleys, down to Gobindgarh Fort

ਗੋਬਿੰਦਗੜ ਕਿਲਾ

This is an impressive regular sized fort, with a massive moat. Some other tourists tried to speak to me in language. I answered in English, unlikely too much was understood. 

The Magic man did a little show for me, making balls appear under the bronze cups, he was good. He made my 200 disappear and after I gave him that. Smart people should never leave home without smaller change or it goes like magic. 

The brickwork is intricate and would have taken a lot of work to lay. Interesting that a military thing can be so pretty. A quick lap and I'm out. 

Did a pee, checked out of the hotel at midday, did a few laps of the shopping district,  moving closer to the station. Tried to check in the bike for Jaipur. The parcel man said show me a ticket to Jaipur. It's only at this time that I realised the ticket is for Jodhpur, so we're doing that instead. Sat and waited. Now I'm on the train to Rajasthan. I'll be there tomorrow. And close (300km) to Jaisalmer. My mistake: I accidentally picked Jodhpur not Jaipur, easy error to make. Now I'm more aware that these are 2 separate cities. 

I've ordered a dinner from a bryani restaurant in Jalandhar. You do this on the train website.  Let's see how it goes! 

They have power plugs so I can charge my phone, pillow, blankets, a bench to sleep on.  Just gotta write junk, and watch the scenery. This is real luxury.

The food is handed to me at my seat in a paper bag. Lucknow Paneer subs bryani, skimmed mint buttermilk and Shahi Tukda were great except I spilled buttermilk and custard on my pants and in my jumper sleeve. Eating train food is a skill yet to be mastered. 

I took a pee in the squat toilet, which is another competence which I lack. Hope I didn't get pee on the back of my pants. Seriously how is this done. 

I'm speaking with a lawyer who works not far from Jalandhar and Chandigarh in the family steel business. I've seen his wedding and new house move-in-day videos.

He ordered a veg burger from KFC diverted to platform 2, but received chicken, so had to give it away to someone. KFC had 2 separate kitchens for veg and non veg so it's a wonder that this can happen. The ticket must have gone to the wrong one. The main problem is that he still hungry and has to wait 2 more stops for another "restaurant".

Now it's 3am, a phone alarm is chiming. I'm worried the guy will miss his stop. I carefully wandered out, listening, found the man, so him awake, walked away, but the alarm continues. Oh well, I did my bit.

The train is rocking a bit too much for sleeping well. I used the European loo this time. It was surprisingly clean. There was soap in the dispenser, albeit a bit watery. 

I'll post more news as it happens. 

Amritsar and Attari

I got up before sunrise. Usually I laze in bed. The Golden Temple is lit up at night, and is spectacular, and I wanted to see that. 

It was pretty amazing lit up. Then when the morning sun hit, it likewise glistened and twinkled. 

Doing a couple of laps, I moved to where the music was the grooviest. I touched the ground with my head, bowing down properly. 

You need to cover your head and take your shoes off. There is a cloak room for those before you enter. 

On the way in you must wash your hands, then your feet. 

The bonus is after you bow to the ground and do the obligatory tour of the chanting guru, there is a holy treat station where you can collect a lump of hot mix, nuts, slight sugar, spice and wheat I think. 

Sikhs have the best music. You only need to hang around for a long a you feel. Plus they give meals away for free also. Why would you go for any other religion??

Yesterday I was inspired to make a decent enough donation which would cover a few meals.

I had breakfast at the Langar hall of the Golden Temple this morning. They serve like 100,000 people per day for free. The hall has marble floor, with 40m? long mats. You sit cross legged and they spoon it out of a metal cylinder that they hold, keeps it piping hot. The water cart is on metal wheels. The guy wheels past the line, pulls the handle at the top, and water comes out of the tap at the bottom. 

There are 5 or 6 lines of mats. You sit on one, the next spot in line, put your plate on the marble floor. Makes it easy to clean. 

I had dahl with lentils and chickpeas, a potato veg mix, and slightly sweet straight normal porridge, 2 naans, and rice. All zero % spicy hot.

On the way in, you pick up plate, drinking bowl and spoon from different guys, and hand off after to other different guys. There is a long snaking wash bay for cleaning them. At pick up, there is a mountain of plates in something the size of a ute tray.

I think you'd be impressed.

Luckily my hips have adapted after sitting for meals like that for a week at the apple orchard with my new family. 

A lot happens in a day here!

By 10am I was at Jallianwala Bagh

ਜਲ੍ਹਿਆਂ ਵਾਲਾ ਬਾਗ਼

It is a large green area (apparently a diet dust bowl back in the day), hemmed in by tall walls bordering taller homes and business buildings. 

It is famous because the British, in order to teach the locals a lesson not to protest bad laws, without prior warning or announcements, fired into about 20,000 people, killing 1,500. They only stopped shooting when ammo was getting low. It was psychopathic, but also stupid, as it lit a massive torch under the independence movement. Brigadier-General Reginald Dyer said it was a "merciful " thing to do, to get them into order. If he could have driven an armoured car in, he would have used those as well to kill more. 

I had a snooze at the hotel. 

I skipped lunch today. I had to run to get to the bus on time. I raced down to get a bus ticket for the border ceremony, then raced back. I asked the guys across the road from the hotel, to sew on a pocket to hold my mobile phone. Then 3 guys came up, were curious for a chat. They are dairy farmers. I asked if they have boom box on the tractor. I mentioned I have not been able to get a photo but I'd seen many. So they shared some photos of their tractor, then insisted on giving me a tea after I'd said I couldn't a few times. The videos are awesome. The tailor charged 50, I tried to give him 200 at least for the work, he did no, but I managed to give him a 100. It must be the only place where the merchant negotiates down. 

I'm at the border now! Should be fun! It'd been a super Indian afternoon. 

At the Attar Wagah border, the flag poles of both nations are so high that they need flashing lights to warn any aircraft.

It was pretty awesome. Lots of big kicks and strong arm gestures. I thought the gates would open so the guys would sort of dance together? Seems the border is firmly shut!!

I enjoyed watching the girls dance at the start. General public having a go - they were getting into it, and smiled especially for a foreigner.

Pakistan was so close that I could almost touch it. 

I did have flags painted on both cheeks. 

Keep in mind that it was a border of two armed to the teeth Declared Nuclear Nations. Navdeep hoped I loved the aggression in that ceremony. i think their arm gestures definitely said, "Hey you! Get f---d!" 💪 Which is a worry, as you say, due to nuclear power.

Two guys who marched up earlier on wore headsets, head covering, bulletproof vests, modern uniforms, and carried serious modern machine guns. Those two looked like they meant business!

After the show, seems only school kids and VIPs could get in the concourse to take selfies with the dress soldiers. 

It was a great experience. Viva India and پاکستان !

Dinner was at the Ak Amritsari Dhaba & Kulcha Land (라씨추천) - another Kulcha, perfectly delicious with dahl, green salsa and achar. I ordered mushroom paneer-great, and Aloo matar- ok not spectacular. 

Amritsar

Breakfast was simple Aloo Paratha, and 2 milk chais. Suits me as I way over-ate last night. Mind you I saw this bread for 30 and her breakfast costs 300, but it is conveniently located, you get to sit down and broach teeth after. 

Golden Temple visit - amazing I spent some time soaking it up. 

Went back to go to my toilet. Just sheer luxury. Trouble is every person on the way wants you in their shop or their tuktuk.

Clothes came back from the Christian hotel worker, who insisted the hotel doesn't do it, but he could hook me up. They're spread on the bed, so wet. I should have put in my other undies as well. I hand washed 5 to avoid the dryer. 

Wandered done alleyways. So peaceful, beautiful, interesting. Some homes could be really beautiful. They're just a bit run down, but amazing wood details, town houses like ours, in the central part of town, and very quiet.

It's 12.08. I want to try Thali for something new, but he says sorry that's for lunch, right now is breakfast only. 

I'll try again at dinner. Even if they're still serving lunch, I can't miss out then, right? ... right?? 😄

In the afternoon, I went to the Partition Museum. What a downer. It is such a shame that the place got divided up, based on something random like religion. As far as I've heard, Jinnah did not understand the effects of a hard border. He kept a property in Delhi? and thought he would be able to visit it whenever. Kind of funny when you see the hard core wire fence and no man's land separating the nation's now.

So many stories of families split up, people leaving everything behind, entire trains where everyone was murdered. One Muslim family hid a refugee attempting to get to India. They were afraid that the whole family would be killed if anyone found out,  because they were hiding a Hindu girl. Sounds like when German families hid Jews, or same for Bosniaks and Croatians. The message here is like a cracked record of other places. 

Tonight's dinner was a thali. It was ok. Need to reduce my eating.

Nurmahal

I am in Amritsar tonight! It is just amazingly nice to know that I have a roof over my head for a few nights, and I don't have to guess, research or break down, to find where it will be. Currently sipping on possibly the nicest lassi I've ever had. It is luxury, not eating dirt for a few days and staying here.

It feels like a week ago but it was just this morning, I found the thorn stuck in my tyre.  After fixing that, no problems for 30km to Jalandhar. Saw The Sarai of Nurmahal, very nice. The gate opens onto a large open quadrangle, beautiful, peaceful. The gate is very intricate. Some Arabic calligraphy appears in the gate. Checking with the experts at work, it is in Urdu.

I sat there admiring while eating the 3 samosas I'd picked up at the sweets shop. Lucky I have 0 language skills or I would also have gotten some of those. 

I wiggled through the old town centre. It is exactly as per an old French village, tiny, lined with shops. 

The next one, Jandiala Manjki is similar, and even more medieval with homes straddling the path at the first floor  some overhanging the road. 

In Jalandhar, the army guys with machine guns wave me in at their road checkpoint. They make me nervous, but as per everyone who sees a random foreigner cycling past, they just want to chat. I just want to make it to the train on time. Then they want me to meet the supervisor. Ayaiyai. A selfie crosses my mind, but often selfies seem a bad idea. 

At the station there are metal detectors at the entrance to the ticket area. My bike has a full steel frame. I don't really want to leave it outside. Turns out that the detectors are off. I can get in, just, by turning the handlebars. The cop inside gives info, takes me outside and points me to the parcel office. 

There is one lady,  repeat, just one, handling everything, while 5 or 10 men label and move all kinds of heavy sacks. I requirea zerox of my passport. One guy pulls 20 rupees out, not sure who the kind man is in my panic, one takes my passport and is off, while I watch the lady handle the swirl of men and packages, organised chaos. A form, 32 rupees fee (53c), a meal across the street, and I'm on the platform. 22479 is on the displays, and car C1. I ask a guy, who speaks excellent English by chance, if it goes to Amritsar, he says no! My train is 22429. Glad I asked!! Nothing could have been a bigger problem than going the wrong way without the bike. 

Navdeep advised me to take the CC class. There are 2 sets of 3 seats with a corridor in the middle. Many stand. Some have two rows of seats piled high with roly bags. 2 women occupy the row of seat 64. The roly bag people are guiding me to another seat. After 2 sets of blessings in Punjabi, I am sat next to an old man who has his legs well spread over into my side. 

No worries. At Beas, 2/3 of the train gets off  not seat 64. I get, another, window seat, and research where to stay.

To my despair, the bike took a full hour to clear parcels admin at the other end, perfectly intact, to my intense joy. One guys says there is a labour charge. I asked the helpful guy, who tells the bogus guy to knock it off. I am keen to get out.

Traffic as always is a surprise. 

I head for a highly rated home stay where the guy looks at me and my filthy bike and simply says no.

Seems he's done me a great favour as my hotel is right in the action, with a string of great places to eat and explore. After a bucket wash, can't get the shower to work, I'm sitting in front of the best Lassi I've ever had, quickly followed by a kulcha (spiced bread stuffed with potato), Dahl, salsa, and curd. Heaven. 

I got a milk shake from the "Belgian Waffle", purely to have change (rare, like gold. Still have not got UPI pay.) Wandering upstairs, I meet a Sikh man who welcomes all faiths, born in the USA (parents are still there running a coffee shop), is an attorney, and owns the fancy coffee place here. 

I have paid for 3 nights at Luxe Stayz Heritage Street. It seems really excellent, so I could stay one more.

I have to say, all the traffic is very respectful here. I can tell the difference between a honk here to say beware I'm passing, and the Australian honk to say beware I don't know to use my steering wheel and brakes properly.

Maharaja Ranjit Singh

1st I went to Punjab Ag Uni for the PAU Museum but it was shut! The Uni is v nice.  Had sweets again for brekky. 

Went to the Maharaja Ranjit Singh Punjab war museum to learn about the wars with Pakistan mainly. They had a couple of awesome aircraft in the yard. I worked out my Lieutenant Colonel I met in the train is pretty high up. 

The highway was very smooth and not terrible as power usual. 

Next stop was the Maharaja Ranjit Singh Fort Phillaur. There were guards with guns, a metal detector,  and each new guy asked me if I was carrying guns,  which I'm not used to. 

A kind guard showed me through the whole place, even into the temple finishing with the obligatory sacred sweets. I got to practice touching the ground with my head, which is best to do, and the walk around. 

After the sweets, i now want to find somewhere to eat and run. No chance haha.

I am at Daddys Food Zone, GT Road Phillour, near Railway Station, Jalandhar, Punjab. I'm trying the tandoori fish. They said it would cost 300 but a different guy charged 370. Not sure if I got ripped off.

Set off, felt strange bumps, realised the back was flat. This being an internal hub, they're is no quick release of the back wheel. What the hell was I thinking getting this kind of bike for a crazy expedition.  🤪  Lesson learnt but this is one of my dumbest decisions ever. 30 gears would make it 6 times easier. I search for a hotel, and there's one soon. Turns out I've been going on the wrong road. I saw a big hotel sign, but after walking to it, the sign says "3kms ahead". One saviour points next for to the tyre repair place. The first word is "puncture?" So I go for it, pulling out the tube. They apply soapy water. We find the hole. I patch it, express my extreme gratitude, and head off, back again, to go the right way this time.

I'm hauling ass to get there before sunset and we're looking good,  but then the dining feeling of a wheel going wrong happens again. I wonder if there's a turn still in the tyre. I pump up and can go about 2k at a time. It's not safe and hard to find a spot on the road side but at last the hotel appears. 

The web site says 2000 but he says 2700. On principle I leave and try for the next hotel, but I can't see a thing, the tyre is not working, so I go back with my tail between my legs. This is the nicest room I've had for ages, by far.

I made 33km progress today, annoying but expected. 

Dinner was the usual roulette wheel,  250 for dahl, paneer and 4 rotis. I'm v happy now. 

Navdeep suggests You can take the train to Chandigarh, I think you can also bring the bike on the train. Though you should do (Local) Amritsar on bike. 

I think that going there by train  is a GREAT idea.

He says to Check for train seat availability at https://www.irctc.co.in/nget/train-search, and to Get to the station early and request that you be allowed to take your bicycle in the compartment, pay any additional fees as required.

Let's see what happens. There are seats but the app has gone f ing blank on me damn it. 

Ludhiana

I got up early and crept downstairs where the staff were snoring and my bike was in the restaurant near the front doors, awesome. 

I packed about half the stuff, when they got up and put a shirt over the singlet. One fellow helped me to out.

Cruised into town, Morinda itself. The first shop was a sweets shop. What better way to start than getting a tonne of kJ in. He even offered a coffee,  and declined my offer of some payment. I get the feeling of pride and looking after guests in the country. 

With a hot coffee ingested, I got into the traffic. There was space at the side,  no issues. A little way down I stopped to brush my teeth. 

The views across the green green fields, all tendered, immaculate, were great. The road gradually become very quiet. It was flat and easy. With nothing but greenery. I to through a couple of villages with tiny walkways, not streets. In one village, I did a couple of figure 8s to find the out road, so everyone had a good opportunity to stop what they were doing and take a good long look at my slow U turns. 

There was a brick factory with about 8 serious smoke stacks, followed nearby by a new flyover freeway being built. 

Bought 2 pairs of undies, might be tight.

As Navdeep said, it's going on the green light where you need to be extremely careful. Rolling on the red is no problem. 

Lunch was 2 Samosa and a deep fried bread. 

Got to Ludhiana. You can tell as soon as the traffic starts going chaotic. Cars and bikes going the wrong way, cutting across the road at random, people walking all over or stopping to greet each other, stopped cars, food stalls, anything everywhere. Car drivers going down super tiny streets are mad. They face each other and block both ways while they try to honk it out. It's a relief to find the Samrat Hotel ਸਮਰਾਟ ਹੋਟਲ on Kailash Cinema Rd, near Domoria Bridge Road, Civil Lines, Ludhiana. Walked around to soak up the craziness. Went for a little shop.

I dined at the Cookup Shookup, Bindraban Rd, above Ahuja Tower, Civili, Ludhiana

Ate Malai Chaap which was delicious and completely filling.

Kumarhatti to Morinda Punjab via Chandigarh

Starting off was a concern, as I was going on the national highway, but it generally seemed safe, apart from the odd ass who liked their horn too much. A short roll from the overpass, along a side street, then it was mainly a long long downhill. Views across the valleys here were also nice. 

A cyclist caught me by surprise, in full Lycra, on a hard trail Trek mtb. He works in a local bank, has 2 kids and does about 80k only on an early Sunday. 

Panchkula (panch=five kula=streams, or a small river) is right at the lights. It's a relief to be in the city, amoung slow moving, friendly traffic. In town, I picked up the most expensive bottle of local whiskey I could find in the shop (5500 INR, about 100AUD) to give to Navdeep to once again salute his extraordinary patience in the toilets with Steven puking on the 1st night of the wedding.

We went for a very nice chicken Briyani at a hole in the wall, that was the nicest of its kind I'd seen. Freshly cooked also. 

Navdeep tool me to aSikh temple to explain how to do it: no shows or socks, wash your feet if you find the wash station, now to the floor touch it, touch your head, or bow down to touch the floor with your head. Then do the thank you hands thing, do a circle of the altar type thing, touch each side and touch your head, then once again bow and do the thanks hands 🙏. We went to a local store to pick up a bright orange head covering, so now I am set for the Golden Temple at Amritsar. 

Then we joined Sona at a Cafe for a cappuccino at a rather smart place. 

It was farewells then off on the cycleway free streets of Punjab.

Minute heart attack getting into the NH5, but the road all the way was pretty easy really.  There were plenty of two wheelers, tractors etc, so felt at home, just too much asphalt. With the sunset, the dust, the air pollution, the endless rows of apartment blocks, it did have an end of the worlds feel to it. I guess I don't get that felling at home as you get acclimatised to stupid urban planning there.

Reaching the village of Morinda requires a left turn across 3 lanes, easier than it sounds thank the lord, then a short run with tractors, 2 wheelers, etc, a bit of dirt and in here in a great little hotel. 

It is nice to be sitting down now.

Searching for hotels tomorrow. Setting the rating at 4.5 stars means all the staff wrote one bizarre review each, gave it 5, and it's probably sitting in rubble under the 6 lane elevated freeway through town. I wish there was a bullsh.. filter.

Sainj to Kumarhatti, Solan, Himachal Pradesh

Setting out at about 8am, today was 78km, up 2050m, down 1790m, which sounds bad but was surprisingly gentle mostly. This highway was more like what I expected, more ancient, gentle, climbing slowly, following the contours of the mountains.

Initially it goes downhill, about 5 degrees C but feels colder, and my hands turned purple. I put one at a time in my pocket. 

The beautiful scenery more than makes up for it. The road winds along the mountain. A stream at the valley floor is rock strewn peaceful and audible. The green monkeys seemed scared which is a nice thing compared to the aggressive antics experienced before. 

It winds along like this all day. Traffic is reasonably light and easy to avoid. At a servo, there is a pump where the pressure can be set precisely via digital readout, v nice.

A man I meet invited me to have a cup of tea and lunch. I declined as I need to make progress. A car load of young guy stop to ask where I'm from, where I'm going, do I have Instagram, Facebook etc. Lunch was at a roadside stall. The cook comes from a poor family. His dad is sick so he has to work here. I think he was from Shimla? He asked about migration to Australia and working as a chef there. I gave him the usual advice, to go for a study visa. But I don't think that he has any money to pay for the airfare. He would like to work in my home but I explained it's too small. He should check the au-paire ads. All this is via translator and is the most substantial conversation today. 

The hotels en route looked rubbish but I ended up at the HOTEL OJAS & RESTAURANT!, MAIN MARKET, Kalka - Shimla Highway, Kumarhatti, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, India. It is excellent, apart from working out the shower (I ended up using the bucket and scoop), and the doona had a dirty line where it touches people's necks. The pillow looks clean. Dinner was Aloo Mattar, Dahl and 5 rotis, very good. 

Before dinner I bought 300g of sensational sweets 130 rupees, ate a couple. This is an instant mood changer. I love this place although it is situated under the NH5 flyover, just like in the Blues Brothers but with more dirt, uneven pavement and shops higgledy-piggledy around the round about with the major support structure in it.

Leaving Kiari

Went for a walk back up to town. Mainly to try to find my sentimental scarf from the wedding, I could kick myself, and secondly to have a look around. I'm sure the scarf got picked up quickly. The village seems to me to be a typical old style place built around a path, then a set of paths, clustered together. It's even got a Piazza with seats for the oldies to sit and gossip. 

To make milk chai, you need dahl chinni (dalchini (दालचीनी), the English translation is cinnamon) break it into pieces by hand, a clove ground in mortar and pestle. Boil these in a pot, and a spoon of tea,  a tiny bit of brown sugar. Add milk, bring to boil,  strain to serve. 

Also he makes a roti/pancake from shredded cabbage, rice, small lentils. The last 2 ingredients are soaked over night, then ground up in the blender. Remove any excess water from the cabbage as it gives crumbly pancakes. Use a cast iron pan and butter or ghee to grease. 

I think I get moving around midday or so, so they say I should stay another day and go to the ceremony with them but if I don't, I will never leave. I get to Sainj, only 30km away, up 350m, down 930m elevation. 

Every hotel seems surprised to get a guest. The staff scramble to get soap, a towel and glasses to the room. Seems quite clean but I think they don't wash the sheets often. I have a camping sheet but it is cramped. 

The hotel manager very kindly walked to the local shops then to the fort with me. 

The fort is currently a family home and the owner intercepted us on the driveway in. He is building accommodation on site right next to the historic structure. I'd move it a bit personally. 

Maybe it's the lack of food but this place is depressing. The only restaurant I can find has a few drunks huddled over a beer and when I make the eating action with my hand, the guy who also looks sad, says no. I find a samovar place, so 2 of these will do for dinner. Things are looking up.

The hotel manager once again walked back with me to show an actual restaurant. Typical desi dishes are served on the plate. I can't understand but I think they would give more. I've only got a 500 note, and they charge only 50 rupees. After getting a bottle of water, I have 10 more in change, so I go back to give them that.

Relax day

Norpal and his lovely wife have been invited to Jubal for a religious ceremony that goes all day and will be still on tomorrow. It only happens every 60 years. They asked me along, but driving an hour to listen to chanting for 7 hours sounds like the death. 

I go for a morning walk with Ani to check the apple trees and things. Then breakfast, and a walk with Abu (Rishabh) to his grandma's pace, and into the village. I continue along the path into a wonderful small plaza surrounded by homes. I can easily see the oldies sitting here in summer. The ancestral home sits above this collection of homes. It is in his condition but needs a couple of families in there. 

A film crew want to document the Italian apple trees and the results of their fertilisers etc. Abu may be famous there after being photographed on the farm in front of the healthy trees. 

I nap a bit, then me and Abu go visit Arushika. She reminds me she told me she works in a logistics company in Chandigarh. She studied politics and works in HR. We went for a tour of the home. She is a smart young thing. Her mum and sister watch me with some kind of interest and end up asking me to stay, which seems standard, and would be awkward I think, but a lovely gesture. They take a shot with me and the ladies. It's strange for me as a westerner to be sitting with these ladies. They are pros of their beautiful home. 

Cooking tonight, parents are away, Abu heats sunflower oil up until a couple of cumin seeds bubble in there, then chuck in a handful, half an onion or so, tomatoes, potatoes, cauliflower, thumb rubbed coriander seeds + cardamom leaves.

Ani is making Bari of water and jagri ( solid molasses/ brown sugar chunks), boiled up, remove impurities by filter, boil more, add flour to solidify.  I'll report on that shortly. Eat it with ghee. Was pretty nice tasting, with texture of plasticine. 

A pure veg meal, tasty and filling. 

Bush walk to 3300m

Pranav is Soma, Mona's brother.  One of his best buddies is Paaris, who didn't know the family connection to Rishabh until he came to the Shimla wedding. Also they say it's thanks to me that they visited. 

Paaaris is here to take us on a hike today from Jubal up to Kuppar, pronounced Cooper.

Firstly we go to the temple at the bottom, Baindra Devta (dev-Dave- deity). The priest puts water is my right hand that I must drink,  ties a string around my right wrist and gives us a handful of holy candy. Later I pass these onto Norpal who seems pretty grateful. 

The walk up is steep windy and on slippy ground . 

The view from the top is magic. We can see the Himalayas proper with a white range of snow capped peaks. 

Lunch is at Paaris's house. His mum cooked up a storm. 

The top level of the house is newly renovated and insulated as best they can, eg with 8mm glass. Is very comfortable. The kitchen has a bench top over which you look out over the valley. Paaris room is converted from the old  attic, has a vaulted roof with semi exposed beams, a very modern ensuite with a wall hung toilet. The home looks traditional from the outside but is right up to date inside. 

Visit to the Apple orchards of Kiari Kotkhai

Started the day wandering around looking for some food that looked OK. Found a small stall by the road with a pot boiling and roti on the go. Behind the man standing up cooking, there were a few spots to sit in his cabin. Perfect in my opinion. He asked for 40 but I gave him 50, about 88c.

2 guys send me on the wrong road. There's always someone who stops to check on you. The connector road is a beauty through the other part of town, winding down a slope to the main road, great views. 

Rolling downhill on the main road is long, smooth,  along the side of the mountain. 

In India,  noone can hear your bolts rattling off. On the rough uphill section, one Ortlieb bag is sadly dangling on a single hook. Seems a nut fell off which secured the other hook so I am stuffed. I thought I had some bolts somewhere,  can't find them. After wondering what is Hindi for 4mm hex head bolt, spot some in the bike frame. This nut works perfectly. I check, tighten and adjust the others, like I should have done 100ks ago,  and we're off again. 

Kotkhai is very peaceful,  perched on the side of a hill, until some cars block each other and start seriously leaning on the horn. 

I stop to pick up a kilo of sweets then chat to a guy from Delhi who is there to visit his sister. 

The road from there winds around the old fascinating fort. 3 cars stop to say hello and ask questions on the way, one time 2 stopoed at once side by side blocking the road. 2 of them are at the weddings in the village later, so I say we met already. 

Rishabh gets me to stop at the local shops, where he can pick me up. Annyrude, his brother, is there a well. We roll straight to a wedding and I meet half the town, including the very nice young man who checked on me just out of Kotkhai, and Annyrude's wife Ayushree. She has a Masters in microbiology, writes reports for the US FDA, compiled from doctors findings resulting from the use of new drugs. One brother has a degree in Engineering, the other in business. 

We visited Vivek's place. I meet Ani and Abu's 97yo granma. They have to shout for her to hear. She gets excited. Plus the sick mum of Vivek who has a dialysis machine. The brothers come to help her with this. 

Walking on, there are the original homes, tightly packed together for protection, thick stone slate rooves, mostly wood, with the lower floor reserved for views etc which keep the home very warm. The ancestral home is here,  it's verging on being a palace. 

Day two is another wedding. I meet many people. I had a nap around 3pm, that was awesome. Dances with a very funny guy who looks like Riet. The road contractor guy called Kakul I think,  looks like ex PM Paul Keating.

The groom worked in the Kinnaur Valley, so many guests are dressed traditionally-same same but very different. The Valley leads to China and many have very Asiatic looking faces. Their music, which sounds the same, gets them all up dancing. 

The wedding music here sounds like Indian reggae. I like it a lot, it's addictive, catchy and easy to dance to. 

Day three. My home is about 1500m and faces into the morning sun. After about 8am it is positively warm. Rishabh plays some bamboo flute. I hung out my hand washed undies and socks in the sun. 

We go up the mountain to see the new temple under construction. Forgive me, I can't remember the deity. Then we go in on their cousin Vardan for lunch, his dad, and his wife Sheena who had a Masters in English literature asking with a good collection of books. They are at 2200m with expansive views over the valley. We walked to a sacred lake with the fish you're not allowed to eat, besides being vego. Later Abu tells me he helped get this guys life back on track, and now he is a proud family member. 

Further on  there are views to the Himalayas proper. The jagged snow capped peaks are around 6000m according to Tarun. Another cousin is up there. He collects a bag load of rubbish, explaining that people drink, leave rubbish, and it's their place so he cleans it. 

We inspect where he will get married in 6 months,  next to yet another temple, on a field overlooking everything. 

We go to his home for a cup of tea. It's also 2200m. They have made concrete steps up to the home in prep for the wedding. They are slightly off camber. I mention spirit levels but I think this point is missed,  and they are done now anyway, and look very good. Taruns mum is on the wall. She died when he was 6 months old. His dad died during covid. Taruns mum is the sister of the father of the cousin here called Sunhash? Tarun and home are 1st cousins.

Saturday 29th

Got up about 8am, best sleep in so far. 

Brekky downstairs as always. Then packed and ready for the others to get an 11.30 bus that left about an hour later. They got to Chandigarh around 6pm. What an epic,  as bad as my journey. 

The start was very peaceful, with spectacular views for a couple of k's. Then it was on the main road, fine if you're moving, less fine if you get off to push. Not very comfortable, not much space on the edge, cars overtaking on the wrong side of the road etc. 

Chatted to a shawl maker with a very nice large shop,  at the top called Shimla Shawl Factory , here:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/TCgB2pn8Fy273J4x8?g_st=ac

Then it rolled down pretty fast to Theog, strangely pronounced as it's spelt. This is a very pretty little town with a winding pedestrian street,  lined with shops, and the odd view over the surrounding huge valley. A guy says hello when I stop. I'm looking for Monty palace,  and the guy introduces me to Monty who is standing 5m away. We chat, where are you from, what do you do, people here are helpful etc. He observes they love to help travellers but won't help the local derros. True for us too. He warns me that some young people are hooked on Afghani heroin, so to avoid young people, and don't stay out at night. Later, there are plenty of people so it seems not an issue. 

I wish I could stay right here in the middle what a dream, so quiet. He doesn't have room, so passes me onto the Hotel Ashish. This is a super weired place run by a kind lady. Tiny concrete room, with bedding that hasn't been changed for a long time, and an ensuite (I found the switch yay!), and the doorway is so low that I crack my head, twice. It's still sore sore in the morning. Glad I have toilet paper and a bed sheet. Generally clean, but I won't be staying two nights. 

Dinner was a veg thing plus a bread at a little stall, with little plastic chairs. The young kid quotes me 30 for the bread, then the old guy charges 40 for the whole meal. I hand him a 50 (about 88 cents) and tell him to keep the change. 

Back in the concrete room, coughing away, writing this, wishing for a heater. 

Friday

It's a day off. A cable car takes us up to visit the monkey God statue. The green monkeys up there steal things, chase ppl around, making it not heavenly. Harrison's sunglasses are stolen and destroyed. Anna was giving them nuts. When she turns her head, her bag is plucked from her hand. By miracle, her phone dropped oit onto the ground. The monkeys take it onto a roof, and go through the contents. One puts on a beanie and dances around. Harrison swaps how drink food some of the things. The guys at the restaurant sell me biscuits to trade the rest, but all that happens is that they all close in on me like a horror movie. Me, Lou and Marie get out of there.

The afternoon is shopping. After loading up I need to cull down! Dinner and drinks tonight but I need to try to catch some sleep. 

Day 5-Shimla, collect bike from near Jutogh

Today we are in Shimla and is a day off. Wandering around, there are types of monkeys everywhere, and a flying fox. The kids see him spread out and fly down then back up again after building speed.

I set off to collect the bike. Uber won't respond so a helpful local shows me the bus to take. The gps let's me follow exactly where to get off. Lunch with my man, dahl and something like chole but with beans. The ride back is uneventful.  At the whiskey booth a man wants to chat. He's from Punjab and has a brother in Melbourne who isn't picking up the phone. I have to say I'm going now about 5 times. If you need a chat, he might still be there. 

After dropping the bike, I have a second lunch of everyone's leftovers at the 1873 Cafe.

The evening we have a formal dinner and dancing. Sona's niece shows us the moves. Have to admit I love Indian music when it's got the powerful back beat. 

Weds 26th Nov the wedding

The typical day starts with hotel breakfast. Apparently you can walk between balconies. Brock's door can be opened. Harrison walks in on him showering. Luckily the view is only from the waist up as he pokes his head past the wall and issues av surprised wtf!!

The first ceremony is wiping turmeric and yoghurt on the bride and groom. This is also a bad idea as I end up carrying the groom on a chair and wearing a decent paste of it on my shoulder. 

After this, everyone gets henna tattoos on their palms, including the blokes. Navdeep suggests wrist only, so your hands are free but it ends up looking like bondage bracelets. 

For the evening we get dressed up. A band with drums and trumpets plays traditional festive folk music, v loud. Dancing to it us like Hari Krishna style, so easy and fun. 

The barman shots are like triples every time, so Steven ends up puking it. I'm lucky to escape unmauled. A great night.

On the second day, Manus has to parade around on a horse. He is dusty and I'm sure not happy to have to get out of bed early for the 10am start. 

This is followed by the actual wedding, where there is a lot of chanting, the couple walks around the fire a few times, throws puff rice around or similar. 

An arvo nap is in order then a walk around town. 

Day 4 Kuthar to Shimla

After a night in Kuthar, breakfast is at 8 so I go for a tiny wander to look over the town. I can go about 100m on the level but don't want to go further as then the road dips sharply down. The entrances are via bridges into the front door. One building goes down about 3 levels from the road,  and up 2.

Walking back to the room, turns out there were other guests at all. He makes music on YouTube, and makes enough that he can do it do time. Him and his buddy are lovely, from Delhi, rolling back today. His best video got 17 million hits. He is famous in the north. 

About 10 mins after 8, they announce breakfast will be in 20 minutes. It's not the early start I was hoping for. 

At least the road is not too bad. The steep bits are easiest walked, then your legs get a break, and the next ridden part is easier. 

But sure he I ended up 3ks off route. Took a while but returning down was fast once the error was found. It took me 4 hours to work out the ATM. The town here has a big military area. 

At Kunihar, I get a well timed call from the mechanic, and finally I can get 1st gear. It wasn't too last sadly. There's something with the cable and the selector. 

At least the progress seems decent,  despite doing regularly to try adjust the tension. 

I stopped for a chat with Karam the local school guard.

There was another group of monkeys in the trees. Got a video this time. 

I'm so close I can feel it as the sun is setting. The town is so big and sitting perched on a hill must be it right? It's not. 

A random kids talks Hindi excitedly to me about the bike. His dad comes up as well. It's fine dark but the streets and shops are lit up like Christmas and the road is so jammed, progress is easy and stress free. 

After town though it's hard to see, the shoulder is non existent in places and at one point it seems way too dangerous to continue. A food place is right there, perfect timing. We try to coordinate group 2s bus to get me but it's not possible. There are guys in the hut around a fire. I say my name is Ted in Hindi, then we're all shaking hands, getting names, asking about work, kids etc, offering a cup of tea. One offers a lift and to leave the bike for the night. 

The poor guys must have driven a good half hour in the traffic around tiny tiny roads choked with cars, crawling through tight spaces, doing a 3 point turn, and hill starting up a steep incline, gave me a traditional sweet.

At the hotel, Marie, the boys and other family members are getting off the bus. I want to hug everybody!!

Day 3 to Kuthar

For future reference, my path was:

-through the grid onto Udyog Path, which bends 90deg to the right, left onto Madhya Marg, around Khudda Lahora, on the road that disappears into sand etc via Majrian to Maranwala, then state highway, SH16 to Jutogh, and the 205 to Shimla.

Rolled out of The Fern Residency Chandigarh bright and early. Stopped once to get directions. Went around Khudda Lahora, well out of my comfort zone,  Looked up directions again.

It's amazing all the villages through here. People are spread throughout, everywhere. 

I think this is about the hardest ride I can remember doing. It started on bitumen, hard dirt, then fine deep dirt, hard to keep control. Going was slow. I ended up pushing the bike for a bit. Saw a peacock 2 times.

Doing a left right from the 105 to the SH9, there is rubbish just everywhere along and around the river, big piles of plastic. The town asking the road had many small shops, the owners taking up a lot of space. I've got to go in one time but I can't speak the language so it'd be even more awkward.

You just gotta roll with the traffic and they'll move around you, while honking a lot. The road is single lane bitumen, dirt sides. For busses and trucks I get off right off the road. Some kids stare at the bike, some point and laugh. People don't say hello in general. 

I saw a magic looking greenish brown monkey about a foot tall. There were several 2 foot tall ones doing Rambo jumps down into trees a good 3m below. Very noisy. 

One guy did stop to talk but we couldn't understand each other. A truck also stopped in the middle of the road to ask where I'm from, that kind of thing.  He couldn't block the road for long. 

I held on my wee for a while, but finally found a side street. Stopping to get a bottle of water, I finally ask if he has a menu. He says no,  it's just roti and mix veg. This is peak, finding someone who speaks enough English that I get to ask for lunch. It's pretty delicious. I haven't hit any properly spicy stuff yet. The lunch man advises visiting Kuthar. Turns out to be bad advice. This place is a truck stop and car wash. Not much point when it's going to get coated in dirt the minute you leave. 

The greenery, scenery get better, while the rubbish decreases. 

I stop in Kuthar and go to the dirt that has 4.7 star rating. At a glance it looks great, then you realise you are the only person in the place. 

At 5.36 I get there. We try both cards to pay. Then they ask if I have UPI. Then they want cash but I have to go to the ATM. I hunt for the first, is out of service, then try to find the other but fail after going along a tiny side street that is also the shopping strip. It's getting dark. 

I try to go to the other hotel after getting the rage coming on, but they're not there and not answering the phone. 

I explain things and then he asks for the cash. Clearly he's not understanding. 

Then I come up with the idea of a bank transfer. The boys calls 4 times, eventually it's done. 

The water takes ten minutes to heat and about the same time to use it all up. I cook, then work out the cold tap then freeze again at the end. 

Going to the dining room, no one is there. I wait for a while. There's dirty table clothes up there still. I consider not eating for a minute but I don't think I can. I then go hunting for them and give the order. Back in my room I am cold, hungry,  and the Ac remote does not work. I feel this is the Indian version of the Bates motel. All 5 of the guys stumble around to get things. I genuinely don't know how they are still in business. This place is horrible. The food was surprisingly nice. I read they get a restaurant to do it.

Day 2- cycling Chandigarh

Day 2, I took the bike down in the lift,  rolled out the front door,  and joined the main street with the locals. There were plenty of others so it felt safe. 

I rolled without aim or care, ending up at the High Court. One guy with a machine gun smiled and helped me with directions,  then the next set, the guy said something incomprehensible pointed his finger and said GO! I respected his authority. Don't want to screw around with angry army personnel.

The tourist office said to come back at 12, so I ended up in the rock garden to kill some time. There were loads of school kids having a great time. I said hello to an entire class, or rather they did to me as they filled past. I chatted to one teacher who was very kind.  She quizzed me but I forgot to quiz her back. 

It's laid out in a maze, a huge open plaza at the end with swings. I walked around,  couldn't find the exit, panicked, asked, and turns out you have to back track. I'd already spent an hour and had 30 to get to the tourist office,  so at a panicked clip, with no idea of I was quite going the right way in the maze, it was a huge relic to get back to the bike parking area. I think mine was the only one locked up. 

After going through another baggage scanner,  and leaving my bike repair kit behind for the tour, we went over a foot bridge and inside where there were more army guys, but unarmed. Poor things must be really bored. 

It was the work of Le Corbusier, moderated by Nehru demands. For example, the tallest building is only about 5 levels. With all the fighting, wars etc, Nehru did not want to create a target. 

Chandigarh is a planned city. La Hore was lost to Pakistan, so Punjab in India needed a capitol. Turns out it is Haryanas capitol as well. 

Le Corbusier symbol is the corbeau, hence his name, ie a crow, in French. Because the bird is intelligent (and modest?). So on the door of parliament,  there is a crow,  and a chicken, the symbol of France. 

The Hans of peace is the shadow of a dive and weighs 50 tonnes. It turns with the wind. 

I ended up chatting to 2 French girls who are in exchange to study textiles. Awesome place to do it. So many amazing fabrics. 

Checked out my route for tomorrow. Met up with John and Manus's families for dinner at a BBQ grill,  slightly weird but I guess it's something different. I got the message a bit late, so got there a bit late. Met and charged to Andy, Monika, her sister Sona plus her husband Navdeep, and the their Mammy mum/ grand mum. I asked for name in Hindi. She says do you speak Hindi? I say no!

Monika is handling all the details and not getting upset. Navdeep is worried about me going up SH9 due to trucks and damage from the extreme monsoon this year. He says to go on the NH5. Sona is the head of a department and sometimes goes into the amazing 1960s brutalist Admin building in town. 

I wake up at 3am and screen shot the road. It is a complete horror main road. I don't sleep well. 

Day one India - Chandigarh

Finished work at 4.15, showered, kissed Marie goodbye at the station, and got on the train. The walk from Wolli Creek was actually very nice and too easy. Got on the flight after walking very slowly passed the $50 a litre Aus gin. Entertainment screens were busted,  a guff thing as I slept a lot more. 

Travelling solo is great. Meet one fellow on the sky bridge,  then chatted to the guy seated next to me. He is a Sydney and a cement truck driver. He gets paid a lot and hasd a few at the airport bar. I felt obliged to have one. Dinner was a huge shot of whiskey and a packet of crunchy corn. I think the alco lady is trying to make people forget that the scene aren't working. Cattle class is a bit run down. Hallelujah there's food! Breakfast was 4 hours later, then 4 hours more sleep, more food. 

Landed, customs lady was barely verbal, panicked at the baggage carousel, finally hit out then furiously tired to make an earlier train. QR code did bit work. I got the wrong station, paid more, but given another ticket going backwards to the selected start. Just as the train going the wrong way left, I thought I should have gone the out and back in again, to make it legit,  but the next one was a mind looking 17 mins so chanced it to Delhi. Of course the QR code wouldn't work on the correct destination, but they kindly have me another ticket that cost the balance of the trip.

Getting out at the stain was a rude shock. Heaps of people, care rolling over the path honking as they exit the car park.

Waited for a while, asked the info man if there was an earlier one,  the info man in the other building said no seats available.

After waiting 3 hours on the wrong platform, the train came onto the screen, so could go to the right one. Found a seat but it's thick metal. Eventually it warms up. A blind man who appears to have burned his face comes round along for money. I hands him a ten. Then he takes a step closer and again asks me for money. I can't explain that I gave him some. Then had to walk off. 

After lapping the platform,  I saw someone with a printed QR ticket. Mine had no QR, no seat number. I had the sinking feeling that my ticket was not confirmed. Also the platform is 200m long and i had no idea where to stand to get the correct carriage. I started thinking about back up plans like attempting to find a bus, going to the airport to get wifi. An employee helps but it takes a customer to look up my seat number. Crazily I have no internet. My co passenger is very friendly, a helicopter pilot with the Indian armed forces. He mainly patrols the Himalayas. Their choppers go up to 7000m.

On train, the views are amazing as we go through the outskirts of Delhi. Ac boasts the cabin with super cold air. 

An thinking hard about how to handle the squat toilet. Pants right down or stop at the knees? Chandigarh next stop! I ask my friend his name. It's Lieutenant Colonel something. Obviously a very successful guy. 

On the platform I don't know where to go,  go with the flow,  can see where the Tuk Tuks are, and then we're in.

These things are awesome. The view is unhindered,  you feel every bump. You could easily shake hands with the adjacent petiole in the traffic. 

The hotel is top class. My bike is here,  a huge relief. 2 guys bring it up, so i to them both. I'm missing a nut, which means i can't go anywhere. A sure was walk and the local bike shop hero give me one for free. I love the place. Walking after dark feels safe. There's aMerc, Audi, and Porsche dealers on the same street. Odd country. Dinner here was perfect, potato cauliflower nut lumps in gravy with about 5 naans.

June-25

 Not much happening in June, according to my records. Work sucks, boys studying sometimes, dog seems chill.

I've been sewing leather cases. I did one for me, one for Mohammad. This one was for Tony as his was falling apart. If anyone's reading this, the offer is there; I can make you one too.

It's very relaxing, uses scraps of leather, lasts for ages, and each time I do it, I definitely learn something and get a bit better.

Trying out the Greens up the coast, right near us; you can see it from our back yard. No idea what the convo was about here.

Marie went away to Croatia this month. In fact, I should really put some pictures of here trip up, eh, next post. I am really happy with these two guys getting some cook time in. Really need to do it more.

Marie ordered tickets for us to go to some skate/acrobatic type show at the Opera house. They were very good; one dude on the skateboard - I think I was about as good as this guy. The BMX guy, the girl and others were pretty amazing.

I've been doing some reserach in preparation of seeing a lawyer regaring getting an Italian passport. It's interesting that thanks to the Australian govt locking them up, we've got a bit of a trove of docs showing dates of arrival etc etc.

Turns out this info was useless, as since they became naturalised in Oz, they gave up Italian citizenship, so we are not entitled to a passport. Oh well. Apparently if we'd done it a couple of years ago, they were accepting everyone. But due to the overwhelming numbers of Sth Americans applying, they tightened up the rules. 

Boys, if you want to live there, just get a job, simple.

Our favourite dog models the blankets in the front room while we watch TV. Doesn't she look wonderful?

May-25

On a walk near Stanmore with Goldie.

Close to Newtown.

Outside Jaime's office at Sydney Uni, a bit further along the walk.

Me and Mohammad went for a bike ride, stopped at work for a chai and ping pong...

...then went to a show; The Stevenson Experience. They were pretty good, not too much filth haha.

Marie and the big GD.

Trish, Jaime making Pisco sours (so delicious), and the back of Marie's head. We got some kind of take away to keep it simple.

Saurabh, Jay Tomar and Pinkesh, on Jay's last day, in "Little India" aka Harris Park. Mmmmm I feel like some Indian food now. He's off to another company for much more pay, and he's a bit of a genius so I think he'll do really well.

Happy birthday to our beautiful boy. He had a bunch of friends come up to the coast, and they gamed the whole time pretty much, apart from the odd walk. Apparently they really liked it: "A bunch of guys gaming Dad, how do you think they'd like it, they loved it."

While we were up, me and Marie went to see James Valentine's Surprisingly Upbeat Review. Some good jokes, and really alpha virtuoso grade jazz musicians.
 

April-25

 

We went to Dinner Plains for the school holidays. It was way cool.

Our typical day consisted of: go for a bush walk in the morning, come home for lunch, maybe watch a movie or have a snooze, then go for a walk in the afternoon. Very pleasant, although given the number of places for sale, maybe you don't want to do this all the time.

Omeo on the way there: it's a beautiful town.

Me, Marie, Gab, Ang, and Steve at the Lakes Hotel at The Entrance. We went up for a couple of days during the Easter long weekend.

More snaps from Dinner Plains. Some of the tracks are really beautiful.

Near Dinner Plains on a walk with Oli.

Day time fun at the unit.

The place had bikes available. We did some mountain bike riding with the boys as well.

At Adelong: there was a local rock crusher in the river, for sifting through for gold.

At the local pub for dinner, Adelong. We stayed for a night, at a different pub, there, on the way to Dinner Plain, to break up the trip.

At Canberra on the way down, with Tom, Fox, Marie and Lou. 

(Sorry these photos are in reverse order)

On the train, probably to Picton, outer Sydney is wonderful.

With Amir, Has, Marie, Fiona at the new Persian restaurant at Haberfield, near enough to us. Delicious. Iran is a real culinary centre of the world.

March-25

We went to Kylee and Dave's for the weekend! Good times.

Ceal, Fil, and Lib came along. Hugh dropped in briefly before going to Sydney to visit his brothers.

I picked up some furniture off the street, stripped the paint off the top, showered our front room with dust, got into hell trouble with Marie, and the kids even. I think the unit is ok! Mohammad moved into a bigger place in the hope his wife can come to Oz soon.

We went to Ellens home. She's moving out, getting rid of everything. I thought Mohammad could get some, but I don't think he was interested.

Anyway, I love this piece of art here:

Other stuff that happened, for which there are no photos; we went up the coast, we went to Michael and Louise's for their combined sort of 50th, went to Hass and Amir's, went to the art gallery with Enno and Andrea. I got no notes on those.

Feb-25

 

Me and Oli went to the Bathurst 12 hour.

I think he was pretty excited about it.

I have to say the view from up on the mountain was amazing.

The dip down before hitting the main straight. Was cool to see them skidding around for traction just prior to this hard core bend.

You can get very close to the action

And afterwards in pit lane after checking out the trophy giving ceremony

Back at work and burned despite wearing a hat all day.

Some serious ping pong.

A random night out with the dogs, Vonne, Tone and Marie.

The third one is harvey, Jackie's dogg

Not sure where this is. Brain malfunction.

Jan-25

 

Baka's funeral.

Jaime, Akemi, Claudia, Tim, Marie up at the coast.

The kids at Long Jetty to check out the sunset.

Esteban, Oli, Lou, Louis at the basketball court near Bateau Bay.

Oli, Andrea,Jaime, Tim, Anna, Esteban, Claudia and Louis

Trish, Jaime, Akemi on our 1st or 3rd  puzzle.

i had to go to work at some stage. The cat was pretty happy to see me again.

Some of Oli's friends also came up for a few days. Good times eh.

Mel, Tom, Tony, Vince, Jason and co up at the coast.

Mr Lou

I'm starring in the new "Do your bit" ads.

Lovely Toowoon Bay

These pics are running in reverse, can't remember the occassion but mel and Tom were in town.

Oli, Marie, Dave, Mil, Fil up the coast. It was excellento to have some excellent visitors after Chrissy during the school holidays.