Warlu - what we did there

NT day! Everyone can buy and let off some serious fireworks. It freaked Kira the dog right out.










Diary:We went hunting Wichetty grubs Saturday. You look under a certain plant, see evidence of insects like a shell or dry cracking, then dig around the root exposing it. Cracking it very gently, you can get the grub out without damage. They are seriously tasty; like egg, nutty flavoured, maybe like corn, v nice.

Sunday we tried to find honey in a tree. You look for the holes where the bees go in and out, then dig and take it out of the tree. As per yesterday, the main meal was damper, potatoes, and roo tail. Also today we added someone's left behind roo roast, with carrots and capsicum, which the ladies also ate. These were done in alfoil buried in hot coals.

Trevor came in for community service. He likes AFL a lot and plays for Nyirripie, where his wife is from. He has a daughter and a son on the way. He asked me if I like hunting. For sure I said, telling him about how we went out with Tess and Dorothy. I got him to give me some basic Warlpiri expressions. Basically I have zero clues and zero hope to get some. Ngoocho ngoro is like "this is a nice place: good country" literally. I took a recording. He twists his lips to say it, plus starts with an ng sound that seems totally different. We mended the fence, trying to add some parts to stop the dogs and kids from getting under it.

Spent the last couple of days packing consignments, picking staples from paintings to get them off the frame, admiring some, selling some. We had a French family and their Swiss friends, dealers, come in to pick up a pile of paintings for their gallery in Brittany. I hung one up in front of them that they ended up taking. It's a Shanna Williams; she does 7 sisters, and they sell like hotcakes. The art dealer is interested as they're easy to shift, come in different sizes, and if someone likes it, he can easily get more: perfect eh. I didn't try out my French on them.


 One other lady, I pulled out a copy of the big one we bought, pointing out the level of detail, the precision of the work, ie this one is a goody, and she just took that one. These too sell like hotcakes. the artist puts out quite a few of these.

 Right: the hunt for witchetty grubs was successful.

 Left; the boys sharing out the paint into pots. They also helped dig, paint canvasses in prep work.

I've dug out a trench for the fence extension, put a roof on drying racks, put out some rocks to make a garden that is sure to fail soon as people just can't seem to leave them alone, painted edges, faces, picked, unmounted paintings etc etc. The boys have helped serve out paints, put paints away, entertained, unmounted paintings etc etc. Marie's done most of the above, except for digging and steelwork.

Warlu arts - the people.

 Left: Ollie, Marie, Zoe, Alejandra and Yolandi in the foreground.

Right: Sam and Marie get paintings together to send to Yulara for sale there. Jumpijimba is tired out by all the work.

Alin and Enrique at sunset.

Emily from Sydney, Lou and Miho from Japan.

Enrique prepares Kangaroo tails for the deep fire cook session.

Miho the super cook, Yolandi, Jess and Emily. They were all tops.

The gang at sunset.

My diary continues:
Painted some clapsticks the colour of cucumber, then chatted to Chris about improving the signage to guide customers into the place, then put in some fence extension into the dirt to stop the dogs digging and getting in under the fence.

Jess and Emily turned up. Emily studied medecine at UQ and will be doing her internship soon. What an adventuring hero to take the bus here, Jess too. She's studying public health, is as white as snow so the winter sun is still a problem, and has interesting east European heritage. Chris and Mary got into the gallery and were snapping up some stuff.

Today Chris and Mary were off, finalising a few more purchases, and most of us went up to the hill with a cross on it to check the view over town. The view to distant mountains is amazing - there's flat plains, and mountains all jumbled in. Some mountains seem to be on their own in the middle of the plains. Some have the alien flat top characteristics. The afternoon I spent sweating and breaking my back digging a long trench for more fence extensions down the side of the property. Tonight we went out to see the sunset, about 20kms out of town. Gave the car a decent scratching passing the plants. Oh well, that's what it's for. The view is like Devil's Marbles, split and crumbling, a bit like the alpine rocks and crunchy grasses of Jinabyne, just in the centre of Oz.

Met Alessandro from Sardegna today. He carries mostly food, water and a tent, just two changes of clothes. He's cycled since Kings Canyon at least: a long way! He's a physicist, looking for adventure before he settles down to research.

Warlu Arts Centre - the dogs

 Left: Ben. On the day we arrived, he peed on our tent. Lucky only the bag and the fly were affected.

The donga had many dogs, the town has many dogs. The boys loved them all! The artists, not so much as they peed and pood on the paintings.

Right: Kira the toilet dog.

In between times Kira came into the donga (sleeping area, bunks in shipping container type rooms). I tried to get her out, but she digs her claws in trying to hold on, resisting until I have to wrap my arms around her bony body and lift her up and out. Poor Kira has been traumatised by the other dogs. They all eat her food, so we feed her in the bathroom and shut the door. He often sleeps in the toilet cubicle the furthest from the door. He breathes weirdly when you come close to him. He did chase the cars, so not sure what psychosis this dog suffers from. He is one nervous dog.

Left: Lulu (big) and Kira (male, small).
Lulu is my fave. I went for a run and he came the whole way, very excited. He ruffles up his fur near Ben the big half dingo, and he's a friend, but otherwise he is pretty much the boss dog as far as I can see. Daisy is an old boss as well but she holds back at dinner time. She does bully the other dogs if they try to play bite with her.

We went to the school for the 6pm Tuesday Walpiri lesson with Enrique and our fam, but the teacher didn't come. Then went to the 6.30pm footie training with Blim, but no-one turned up for that either.

 At the local school with Rosie (brown), Daisy (brown and black), and Lulu (black).

Jenga poses in the gallery. Such a Yuendumu shot.

Marie and Ben.

Kira wears the hat.

Left: Enrique commissioned Wilma to do a painting of his cats in the compound. The cats names were Lola and Esmalida. Lou spent a large part of his day at Enrique and Alin's trailer entertaining the cats.

Dogs are excited for a walk to the shops.

At the cat shelter.

Right: Jumpijimba 

Jumpijimba is a new dog. His owner went to the retirement home. He was waiting faithfully at her house waiting for her to come home, but she never did. Sam, a lady who works here, is looking after him a bit. She would like us to make him welcome so he might stay here instead. We all tried to pat him a lot, Marie fed him, I gave him water. Luna play bites with him. Otherwise he's pretty standoffish and snarls with the other dogs who seem a threat. Just today (Friday) Alex, who's staying at Gloria's house to look after all the odd dogs of town at her house while she's away, told us about a dog hit squad that basically murdered a dog. It sounded gruesome: parts of dog here and there. Rosie came in with a chunky gash on her back once. No wonder the littler ones are so defensive and worried. Kira is a basket case. Would be good to home Kira or Jumpijimba but we've got a cat.

Left: Rosie and Daisy ready to sleep and howl it up for the night. Usually two howling sessions per night.

Right: Ollie and Daisy.


Day 3 mulched the plants to bounce light and reduce evaporation from the ground and roots. The place still looks quite clean at the end of the day after the yard rubbish clear out. Lots of coke lids, lolly wrappers, noodle flavour saches, chips packets and just random plastic foam etc. Spent most of the day finishing the roof of the two shelved cages. Had the help of a retired fellow from Canberra who'd grown up in Bankstown, worked in factories, then went to uni and onto the public service. Chris introduced me to DJ Shadow who is quite good. Spent more time looking at paintings to send to friends.

Made it to the local supermarket just in time for closing with 4 or 5 dogs from the compound. The petrol pumps are locked behind cages, so the procedure for fueling must be a pain. All the locals smile and wave as the drive by. Not sure if they're laughing at my artwork on my shirt or the dogs that are chasing the cars so closely that we call sorry to the drivers every time. These dogs are a comfort so that you don't have to worry about the other dogs. We dominate the doggy streetscape. But having two of them going mental at every moving car in the place is painful. Kiera and the little dog are the culprits.

Me and Lou went to the supermarket another time. The dogs waited patiently outside the supermarket, did not chase cars, and all came back in when we got back; a smart collection of dogs these.

Listened to the karaoke at the outdoor church, but didn't get there. Mary and Chris turned up. The conversation, cheese, crackers and nuts went on until Miho from Japan rolled in at around 8.30 who also sat down to join in the chat. Her English is excellent. I hope we get to one of the local events or even just go for a walk some time!

Warlukurlangu Art Centre

The Warlukurlangu Arts Centre is a non profit Aboriginal owned community art gallery. Local artists get paid up front for their art, plus extra when it's sold. They get a fair chunk of the proceeds. There are a lot of costs; paints, the premises, insurances, utilities, food, tea, frames, drying racks, wages for employees, etc etc. 

Right: the pots of paint ready to give to the artists.

Volunteers aren't paid at all of course. It's a great way to provide work to the community on an as needs basis. Artists stroll in and out when they feel like it. Same for helpers who can prep canvasses etc. 

Left: the different paints are mixed ready to go with each different colour is numbered.

We were in Yuendumu to volunteer as workers in the art centre. Met Otto the town elder out the front of the art centre. who told us all about how he'd been to Belgium recently touring around Brussels, Antwerp and Ghent, France, China and Korea as an esteemed artist. Sounds pretty magic. He brought back some Belgian chocolate for his grandkids. This week he's flying to Canberra for an exhibition. He pointed us to the alley where the volunteers compound is.

Right: the 30x30cm prestretched at the gallery entrance.

Chris arrived nearly at the same time by coincidence, and Gloria came later. We started to set up the tent. Benny the dog peed on the cover and the fly. It was of some concern that the tent would get marked, as all the dogs would want to put theirs on it. After a quick rinse, so far it's been kept clean. We put up next to the dogs swimming-pool drinking bowl so hope the pee gods keep us protected. The donga, as shipping container sleeping bunks as called, is pretty cool, with a wide wooden deck, a tree in the middle, and plants near the fence. The compound is surrounded by a 6 foot cyclone fence topped with stiff circles of jail grade barbed wire. The two dogs are also nice to have as well.

Left: the main part of the gallery.


Met Avarro, Zia, Tess, Yolande (pronounced Yolandee), Glen, Enrique.

Right: a model and the end product.

Rolled out of the tent after a late night chatting with Avaro. His father lives in Valencia. He was telling us about the origins of Spanish. Apparently the Castillian, the main dialect, was only spoken by shepherds in the north, but it was easy to learn, so became the language that people could use to communicate. Now it is common in the south.

Started by watering the garden. Me and Ollie painted clap sticks. Eliza asked me to paint some canvases red colour. Turns out the acrylic paint is artist standard, so hard to get off, as Lou found when I accidentally splattered some red on his new cat beanie and pride and joy.

We asked about our skin colour, which is like your family membership. I started as Wanda which means son, then Japenari that means kinship. Then it was hey Japenari, can I get some white paint? Hey Japenari, the dogs tipped the paint over over there. Japenari, what time is it? Knock off is at 3pm, so everyone was out by about 2.15pm to be sure. Volunteers were thin on the ground during and after lunch. Hell we started very slowly at 9, so you don't want to push it. I heard a lot of "hey Japenari" after that.

From left to right, there was Eliza, a young cool guy who spoke pretty decent English. Then Sarah, then Dorothy who is the main one, then Stephen who didn't chat a lot. Some other lady came in, and had them all in stitches. I wish like hell I could understand what all the laughter was about.

Day 2 went for a run out to the air strip as my jeans are getting tight. Was working on the steel shelves with Blim, so didn't spend as much time with the artists. Gave out some tea in the afternoon after a few requests while I was walking past. Cleaned up as much rubbish as I could find around the place, as I really don't like litter all over the place. 

Alice Springs beanie festival

Went back to Alice especially for the beanie festival. The beanie festival aims to support Indigenous women who can knit beanies for income. All are handmade, have crazy cool designs, many have hand spun wool as well. 

Found Lou a cat beanie. We were reading the labels of who made what. Just as the lady who made the cat beanie came up to say she was curious who might buy it. Lou has been pretty much wearing this beanie 24 hours since we got it.

Ollie got a beanie with the scarf and mittens all integrated into it. Mine's an Alpine style one with ears. Marie got one with two wooden buttons that somehow works perfectly for her.

Afterwards we went to the Central Australia Museum which recounts the history of the place from the big bang to current times. There's some interesting info on the big bang, then prehistoric times, then some skeletons and minerals. A great place.

We used to be connected to Antarctica. Oz was covered with ice like Antarctica is now. We had a lot of forests and were covered by a sea. I think it was 300 million years ago, the centre was geologically unstable, forming mountains, bending the sandstone into bended layers.

A King brown skeleton.

Gemtree

Gemtree is a nice little spot. They have garnets, which look just like rubies but aren't worth much, and zircons, which look just like diamonds but aren't worth too much. We scored 4 3mm stones and a 4mm. The big one would have been a 7mm, but it's got a crack, so it will be a 4mm and a 3mm. 

We're getting two sets of earings done up, and a pendant with the stones we found. Another lady showed us her large 2.5 odd caret zircon twinkling in the light, pretty much like a diamond. Apparently, they're very easy to find. Boys got sick of fossicking after about an hour, and hung around an old couple's two dogs instead. Got firewood, made a great fire.

 Panning for garnet.

Everyone got involved.

 After chopping firewood, got blisters.

An awesome fire!

Camping overnight at Ellery Big Hole

Stayed the night at Ellery Creek Big Hole. Met a couple from Victoria. The French guy's Australian wife told me how her two daughters married a French pair of brothers. The brothers parents moved out to Australia also long ago, as both boys decided to stay after holidaying here in their early twenties. Family get togethers must have a lot of French speaking between the in laws and her husband, plus the brothers. I can't help but think this is good for the kids to sit around the communal camp fire with several adults talking adultish things and getting their wisdom.

Lou usually pulls out his "What If" book to talk about that. Sadly we lost it here, as he's always taking it everywhere, must have left it in some gorge. Hope someone is using it. It runs in the family, as I've lost my dad's gold ring in Alice a day later, much to my disappointment. It must have slipped off my finger as Lou was playing with it, then I got it back, put it on, went out, then realised a couple of hours later it wasn't there any more. We'd moisturised our hands after days of hammering in the dirt etc. Usually when they fall off, they make a loud ding sound, so must have landed on carpet. I know exactly where between the hotel room and the pub for a meal. The girl at the pub says nothing was handed in.

Met 4 girls at Ellery Big Hole who were driving one of their dad's car back to Melbourne. They grit their teeth and dived into the freezing water, but didn't stay for long! I called out advice to paddle hard. Marie told me to show them and go in. No chance. We picked up a Laparinta walker: Noel, who wanted to get home early to plan a trip with his grandchildren, and get up to date with his wife's biopsy results. Seems he was high up in the accounting investigations units for the government.

Ellery Big Hole:

It was nice to have Noel in the car. He shouted us some beers when we go there.

 Along the way we checked out Angkerle Atwatye (Standley Chasm) - very beautiful.

The Larapinta Trail walk must be quite a scenic way.

Angkerle Atwatye (Standley Chasm)

Angkerle Atwatye (Standley Chasm) 

Angkerle Atwatye (Standley Chasm)

Currently we're spending two nights in Alice. Sleeping in a motel is no good, as it's a bit warm. We all had a restless night somehow. After losing the ring, I dreamt about Mum. We're doing some school work, a lot of washing, a bit of reading, some blogging. Stayed inside most of the day.